It has been many years since The Wine Society last offered the wines of Moss Wood, but it is a genuine pleasure to welcome this iconic Margaret River estate back with what is already being heralded as its finest cabernet sauvignon ever. Produced from the outstanding 2023 vintage, this release coincides with the 50th anniversary of the estate's very first cabernet and has prompted some extraordinary praise, with leading Australian critics suggesting it may be the greatest wine Moss Wood has produced in its half a century.
Order by midday on Monday 24th August
'Give it a few years and this wine will show its exceptional class.' – Andrew Caillard MW
Few wineries have played such an important role in establishing Margaret River's global reputation. First planted in 1969, Moss Wood was one of the pioneering estates to recognise the extraordinary potential of the Wilyabrup sub-region, long before it became synonymous with world-class cabernet sauvignon. Keith Mugford arrived as winemaker in 1979 and, together with his wife Clare, has guided the estate ever since, building a reputation for meticulous, traditional winemaking and producing one of Australia's most revered and collectable wines. Jancis Robinson MW has famously described Moss Wood as 'the Latour of Margaret River', while the estate has held Langton's highest 'Exceptional' classification for a quarter of a century.
The 2023 growing season provided near-ideal conditions across Margaret River. A long, even ripening period and moderate temperatures allowed fruit to develop slowly and evenly, producing generous yields of beautifully balanced cabernet with vibrant acidity, ripe tannins and exceptional flavour concentration. At Moss Wood, the resulting wine combines plushness with refinement: a classically proportioned cabernet layered with cassis, redberry and plum, complemented by cedar, tobacco leaf and spice, before a long, refined finish carried by velvety tannins. It is a wine with the pedigree to reward decades in the cellar, but above all it stands as a fitting celebration of one of Australia's greatest estates at the pinnacle of its powers.
When I was offered a parcel of this wine for Society Members I leapt at the chance. It is a masterpiece and a wonderful argument for Margaret River’s status on the global fine wine map, with Moss Wood one of just a very small handful of the most iconic estates.
