Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett, Joh. Jos. Prüm 2024

There are several Prüms in the Mosel, but the premier exponent of the region’s wines is undoubtedly JJ Prüm, a legendary family estate which can trace its involvement in viticulture back several centuries. The incumbent proprietor, Dr Manfred Prüm, has been in charge since 1969 and under his supervision, the family name has come into its own. Eldest daughter, Katharina, joined her father at the estate 2003 after completing studies in law and has become an accomplished winemaker and charming ambassador on top of her other achievements.

Riesling is king here with all 14.5 hectares of steeply sloping land, typical of the middle Mosel vineyards, planted with this most noble variety. The heart of the estate is the famous Sonnenuhr vineyard perched over the Mosel opposite the village of Wehlen, one of Germany’s great sites, producing riesling of breathtaking quality. Indeed the wines of Prüm are synonymous with this great vineyard. Neighbouring Graacher Himmelreich and Bernkasteler Lay are two other notable vineyards where JJ Prüm has large stakes.

With such superb sites along with strictly-controlled yields and extremely careful winemaking, quality across the board is top-notch. The harvesting period here often takes place after other producers, often continuing into late November. The wines are then bottled late after a long fermentation in the very cool cellars and are available for sale usually only in the second year after vintage.

JJ Prüm wines are justly known for their remarkable poise, refinement and mineral intensity. The Kabinett and Spätlese wines can show finesse and delicacy in youth or middle age, while the Auslese-level wines, with even greater intensity and depth, develop inimitably haunting bouquets with more time in bottle. They often reach their best after many years, and can be kept in a cool cellar for several decades.