Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine sur Lie, Château L'Oiselinière de la Ramée, Chéreau-Carré 2023

The name Chéreau has been prevalent in winemaking circles in the Nantais area of the Loire region for centuries. This particular branch of the family, however, did not enter the wine business until after World War II. Starting with only a small family plot in the early 1950s, Bernard Chéreau senior set about acquiring more vineyards and property in Sèvre-et-Maine, the most notable being Château de Chasseloir in 1953, with its 15th-century tower, historic chai and 100-year-old plot of vines.

Chéreau’s marriage to Mademoiselle Carré also brought the vineyards of Château l’Oiselinière into the fold. Following this union, the business was renamed Chéreau-Carré in order to distinguish it from other growers with the Chéreau name and the couple’s business went from strength to strength. Investment in the region has continued since and they now own 133 hectares across six domaines and five communes.

The Society first bought here in February 1986 (the L'Oiselinière 1985). Second generation Bernard Chéreau, is in charge of the whole family firm, which includes a number of domaines under the Chéreau-Carré umbrella, and in 2014 his daughter Louise joined him to continue the family commitment to the region and to the development of the Crus Communaux.

Naturally, the melon de Bourgogne – or muscadet – grape is king here and there is extensive use of lees-ageing to provide an extra dimension to the wines. Sur lie wines often have more character and Bernard’s wines prove they can develop in the bottle and cellar too, as most vividly displayed by the Cuvée des Ceps Centenaires, from 100-year-old vines on the Chasseloir property, and Le Clos du Château at L'Oiselinière. The Society has listed the former for many vintages, while the latter, a more recent arrival, and their contribution to the new Cru Communal initiative, is a prestige bottling from a perfectly exposed, mineral-rich plot of eighty year old vines, matured for up to 33 months on its lees (and hence, ironically, not allowed the sur Lie appellation).