Reyneke Chenin Blanc, Polkadraai Hills 2024

From two old chenin blanc vineyards on the biodynamic Reyneke farm, dating back to 1974 and 1976 respectively, this is subtle and slightly shy in its youth, with gentle aromas of yellow apple, honeycomb and beeswax. Ageing in a combination of foudre (two thirds) and amphora (one third) delivers gorgeous texture on the mid-palate – it’s more about texture than about fruit – with vivid, racy acidity carrying apple and almond flavours to a salty-mineral finish. There is a quiet but determined energy to this wine, which builds into an uplifting finish. Certified biodynamic with Demeter and organic with Ecocert, and for working to reduce their carbon footprint, Reyneke’s efforts to be as sustainable as possible make them a shoo-in as a Wine Society Pioneer. Water conservation is a big issue here in drought hit South Africa and Reyneke use only drip irrigation, mostly from run-off dams and only when necessary while measuring its use so they know that they use 50% less than when they farmed conventionally. New vineyards are being designed to capture and use water with maximum efficiency. The introduction of a bio-reactor means that water and other waste has a second use on the farm in compost building and for the cows to drink after independent monitoring. Finally, when bottled the labels are made from agricultural pulp.