Small Wonders White

Beautifully made, mouth-filling yet fresh tasting macabeo from a single vineyard in Calatayud in northern Spain. The high altitude here (850m) ripens grapes with intense flavours yet extremely fine acidity. Expressive with aromas of fennel, garrigue, nuts and butter this is Norrel Robertson's nod to Burgundy. Try it with fish from the chippy like hake, much as the Spanish do.

This small, family run estate is farmed biodynamically and produces excellent wines including this structured riesling from a top vineyard site. Bone dry and mineral, with notes of tangerine and white blossom with some dried orange peel notes. Southern Alsace is famous for its sandstone and dry climate, which give the wines added weight and breadth.

Proof that world-class chenin blanc does not only come from old vineyards, this electric-charged example from the Carinus Family’s Polkadraai Hills farm was planted only 11 years ago, in 2015, principally for two titans of the South African chenin scene: Alheit Vineyards and Raats Family. Sixth-generation farmers Danie and Hugo Carinus are first and foremost grape growers; they supply fruit to some of the Cape’s most revered winemakers, but they also bottle a handful of wines of their own, with the help of Chris Alheit and Lukas van Loggerenberg on the cellar side. As farmers, Danie explains, ‘our wines are our business cards, showing what the farm is capable of.’ This chenin – made by Chris, all in concrete eggs – is linear and taut, with white blossom and jasmine aromas and quince and white-citrus flavours. Stony and intensely mineral, it’s pure Polkadraai – light and energy.

Fresh, characterful Umbrian white with notes of citrus, white peach and wild herbs. Bright and textured, with lively acidity and a subtle savoury edge, it is a distinctive expression of the increasingly prized trebbiano Spoletino grape.

From third-generation family grower, Les Malandes, this is a pure, crisp Petit Chablis with refreshing green-apple and white-peach flavours. Fermented and matured in stainless steel for eight to 12 months, it has lovely persistence and a salty minerality; it is deliciously easy drinking. Today, the estate cultivates 29 hectares of vines, including Petit Chablis in Beines and Lignorelles.

Ex-ballerina Cécille Dusserre is now joined by her daughter and this estate is getting better year on year. This clairette-dominated white Vacqueyras (along with grenache blanc, viognier and roussanne) is bright and fresh and full of flavour with an attractive texture and hints of orange blossom.