Wine is one of the world's oldest agricultural products. And yet, for much of the modern wine world, the way we farm, make and market wine has drifted far from nature. A recent trip to California revealed an industry at a crossroads: on one hand, wildfires, drought and declining biodiversity demand radical change. On the other, economic pressures and consolidation in the industry push towards bigger, more industrial wine. Wine producers are grappling with how to return to simpler, healthier practices – for the land, the wine, and the people who grow it.
Regenerative farming offers a path forward – but it requires a mindset shift. Moving from short-term yields to long-term resilience. From chemically dependent monocultures to thriving, diverse ecosystems. From treating workers as labour to seeing them as essential partners in the land’s stewardship. It goes beyond organics, rethinking the vineyard as a living, interconnected system where healthy soil, balanced ecosystems and fair treatment of workers all contribute to better wine. But the question is: can regenerative farming really work at scale? Is truly sustainable wine just for small boutique producers – or can the big players take on the mantle too?
Life below ground
Soil is the foundation of regenerative viticulture which uses a set of different practices aimed at rebuilding soil health and regenerating the whole ecosystem of a wine farm. Organic farming is just the starting point, with zero use of fertilisers or pesticides and the addition of cover crops, minimum or no-till and a move away from a monoculture.
All these have been shown to improve water retention, increase the diversity of micro-organisms in the soil, prevent carbon loss, erosion and the depletion of vital minerals and nutrients.
The evangelists: Hanzell and Tablas Creek
At Hanzell and Tablas Creek, regenerative viticulture isn’t just a trend, it’s a way of life. Hanzell’s approach is radical and uncompromising: no synthetic inputs, no tilling, no external compost (which they say has its own hidden carbon footprint) and they’re completely off-grid. Their vineyard hums –literally – with life: ducks, pigs, sheep, wildflowers, insects, bees and forest working together to regenerate the soil.
Tablas Creek is equally committed but refreshingly pragmatic. They farm regeneratively, yes – but only in ways that actually work for their vineyards and their people. No dogma, just better farming that works commercially too. They’re pioneering ways to use regenerative practices without tipping into unachievable, or unaffordable, ideals.
... the wine equivalent of freshly squeezed juice vs factory-made concentrate.
And what’s the impact on the wines? Both producers argue that healthier vines, richer soils and zero chemicals create wines that are more vibrant, complex and alive – described by some as the wine equivalent of freshly squeezed juice vs factory-made concentrate.
But what about scale?
Some argue it’s easy to be regenerative when you’re a small producer but Robert Hall Winery, owned by O’Neill, the ninth biggest wine producer in the US, are proving otherwise. They’re conducting one of the most ambitious regenerative viticulture trials ever attempted, to show by example that it can work across thousands of acres and dozens of growers.
Early results are striking: organic matter (meaning vastly better water retention) has doubled; pest problems reduced without chemicals; healthier vines with a bigger canopy (which protects the crop), and even better wine quality. Yes, farming in this way costs a bit more – but growers are paid a premium for better grapes, more than offsetting those costs. And the soil now sucks in and stores three tonnes of carbon per acre, every year. A win for the climate too.
A social movement too
But regenerative farming isn’t just about the land. Certification schemes like Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC) require growers to improve the lives of their workers too. This includes regular engagement with vineyard workers to surface their concerns, something Robert Hall credits with accelerating positive change. Happier people result in better quality work and a reduction in staff turnover.
... sustainability must extend to the people whose hands tend the vines.
This matters. California's wine industry relies heavily on farmworkers, many of whom come from Mexico and Central America. The more progressive producers are recognising that sustainability must extend to the people whose hands tend the vines. Fairness is a key pillar in the ROC movement with farm workers being paid above minimum wage for their labour.
The contradictions of scale
But not everyone in California is convinced. Some of the larger producers we met seem stuck between good intentions and the practicalities of large-scale farming. They’ve made solid steps: drip irrigation, renewable energy, organic vineyards in some areas. But elsewhere, herbicides, pesticides and machine harvesting remain the norm. Some told us, bluntly, that they don’t think large-scale producers can lead the charge on regenerative farming – it’s too complex, too expensive, too impractical.
Yet with smaller producers struggling financially, we have to ask: if they can’t survive, and the big players don’t change, what future does sustainable wine really have?
What next?
The regenerative movement in California feels like both a bright light and a fragile experiment. The big question is: will it remain the preserve of idealists – or will it reshape the industry at large?
For wine drinkers, this matters. If regenerative wine stays small-scale, it risks becoming an expensive niche product. But if it goes mainstream, it could transform not just wine, but farming itself.
Let’s hope more producers take up the challenge. For wine lovers, the benefits are tangible: wines with greater vibrancy, authenticity and connection to place. Wines that reflect not just a grape variety, but a farming philosophy. Certainly, the most exciting wines we tasted came from vineyards that put nature first
At its heart, regenerative wine is an invitation: to drink better, farm better, and leave the land richer than we found it.
