Environment

Top takeaways from the second World Living Soils Forum

This was the second World Living Soils Forum, with the first in 2022 focusing on the why of soil health. This edition was much more practical and looked at the how. Here are my top takeaways from what was an inspirational and thought-provoking event. 

Soil in hands

Vincent van Gogh spent an incredibly productive year in the French city of Arles and produced some of his most famous work during that time. Hoping to capture that same creative and industrious spirit, Moët Hennessy and ChangeNow recently hosted more than 500 guests and 150 speakers (plus more at satellite events in the USA and China) at the two-day World Living Soils Forum at the impressive Luma Parc des Ateliers. 

Why Living Soils? 

The headline-grabbing claim that there are only 60 years of farming soil left is something of a myth but what is certain is that in many areas, our soils are being degraded at a far greater rate than they can be restored. A more objective study shows that 16% of soils have a lifespan of less than 100 years – still less time than The Wine Society has been around – and one must hope that this 16% isn’t situated under some of our favourite vineyards. Soil health impacts our agriculture, our economy and our health but is all too often overlooked. This event aimed to progress the agenda and act as a call to action. What did the conversation cover? 

This wasn’t just an event about soil, it’s about human health

Microbiologist and soil specialist, Marc-André Selosse was one of several speakers making the link between healthy soils and healthy people. In some cases, this was in a more holistic, wellbeing sense of the importance of connection to the land but one debate covered the connection between healthy soil and the nutrients contained in food. It’s hard to make such a direct connection with wine but there is a compelling argument that soil health allows the natural expressions of terroir to come through in the finished wine, rather than the terroir being shaped and impacted by other inputs such as addition of fertilisers and herbicides – a challenge for us in wine to think about. 

‘Soil is the original carbon capture technology’

Work on soil underpins both climate and biodiversity, but this message doesn’t seem to have reached the politicians yet, and despite the fact that soil can take care of 30% of the carbon emissions from burning fossil fuels. The message from the forum was clear – that while politicians seemed to have finally understood the need for action on carbon reduction, a lack of understanding around the role that soils play in the process is hampering efforts to secure legislative changes that might alter farming practices and provide protection for this vital asset. 

Collaboration

To make progress on this topic, the various public and private bodies need to work together to accelerate the pace of change. Currently, private schemes (Nestlé was the quoted example) seem to have a greater take-up than public, but both need to work on carbon and biodiversity markets to provide a revenue stream for farmers so that they can take the steps needed to effect change. Collaboration is also needed between certification bodies as more and more spring up, particularly focusing on regenerative agriculture. This only causes confusion for consumers and costs for producers.  

What’s the story?

Looking beyond the pure science, the right narrative is needed. Speakers flagged the importance of storytelling and the need for more conversation around the social and economic importance of soil. Using art, culture and gastronomy will all be necessary to raise the profile of soil health. A fun and informative game was demonstrated at the event, which was a novel way to introduce the nuances of soil to a new audience.  Great case studies of urban agriculture – mini-farms and woodlands in towns are being used to bring soil to the city.  

Monetise hedgerows

The forum recognised there isn’t just one type of farmer – there are those working with impoverished soils who are struggling to survive. There are those with rich soils and resources who can get involved with associations and driving change whilst others are doing their best in difficult circumstances and need support. Regardless of type, the voice of the farmer needs to be front and centre with legislators. Farmers (and grape growers) need to be recompensed fairly for all that they are being asked to do to improve soil health, sequester carbon and improve biodiversity. A big part of addressing this is data gathering – itself another big challenge, but without which, it will be hard to track progress and ensure the true costs of food production and other land use are factored in. 

The event ended with a call to action which can be read and signed here, with companies and economic players tasked with placing soil regeneration and regenerative agricultural practices at the heart of their strategies and business models. Certainly, we hope that through our Climate and Nature Programme, we are moving in the right direction and playing our part in regenerating soil health so that Wine Society members can continue to enjoy their favourite wines for hundreds of years to come. 

‘Buy land, they’re not making it anymore’ – Mark Twain

Simon Mason

Head of Wine Sustainability & Due Diligence

Simon Mason

Simon has been at The Society for more than a decade, heading our Tastings Team before moving into our Buying Department. Now Head of Wine Sustainability & Due Diligence, Simon works with our suppliers to encourage and accelerate collaboration and improving sustainability throughout our wine supply chain.

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