We were cheered at the news some years back that ‘ratonero bodeguero andaluz’, the Andalusian cellar rat-hunting dog, had been declared a protected part of Spain’s cultural heritage. Not so cheering for the rats, perhaps, but they adapt well and are resourceful creatures, as city dwellers and farmers know well.
As wine buyers we meet plenty of animals that are cherished by their owner winemakers. Lilian Barton (Châteaux Léoville and Langoa Barton) has always provided a home for a large menagerie; horses, dogs, cats, budgerigars etc. Over 20 at the last count. I suspect she may have bought Château Mauvesin Barton in Moulis, because it offered more space to house them all than she had in her house near Langoa Barton. Her father, Anthony, has always owned fine Irish dogs, one of whom he mischievously described in detail on the telephone to an American who asked what the new Léoville tasted like.
Much-loved dogs predominate. In Italy I think of Laura and Gianni Brunelli’s mastiff, Sordo, who welcomed us at their Montalcino winery, or Matilde Poggi’s faithful dog in Bardolino, or the highly-trained truffle-hunter belonging to a wild-looking cousin of our wonderful Exhibition Barolo supplier.
Cats are important too but, of course nobody owns a cat.
Animals can cause a lot of trouble. Wild boar have enjoyed a population explosion, causing much damage, because they are fond of sweet ripe grapes like syrah, and don’t mind trampling a few vines to reach the bunches. Boars tend to go under or barge through protective fencing, while sprightly chamois deer prefer to leap over. Our intrepid Rhône buyer, Marcel, once fled pursued by a boar while sleuthing off the beaten track in the south of France.
Alberto Coffele, like Lilian Barton, has a whole menagerie of animals and he’s passionate about them, not least because of the contribution they make to his organic farming!
Wine buyers are lucky to be often out and about in the country, but its beauty can still catch me by surprise. I remember taking a glass of young Sauternes, Lafaurie Peyraguey, to the small barred window of the chai to admire its golden colour and seeing a hoopoe posing just outside. I think it winked at me.
