Since taking over responsibility for Spanish wines at The Wine Society, I’ve visited Rioja six times. What struck me early on was the strength of our long-standing relationships with some of the region’s most respected producers, something I owe in no small part to Pierre Mansour and fellow predecessors. And as I’ve come to know Rioja better, I’ve been completely captivated by the breadth and diversity of styles emerging, fuelled by a passion and drive to innovate that is currently characterising the region. There’s a surging sense of energy here, making it an unprecedented time to explore Rioja.
The status quo
Rioja remains Spain’s most established and internationally recognised wine region. Its reputation is well earned: a region built largely on the noble tempranillo grape, known for wines shaped by time in barrel, offering everything from dependable, great-value anyday bottles to some of Spain’s finest, age-worthy examples, often defined by their signature vanilla-tinged oak character. Situated in northern Spain just over 300km north of Madrid and 100km south of Bilbao, the region itself is large, with a rich history. The terrain stretches 75 miles from north-west to south-east along the fertile Ebro Valley and framed by the Sierra Cantabria to the north. Its strategic position has helped establish it as Spain’s most renowned wine region.
… and a quiet revolution
Today, Rioja is in the midst of a revolution, and the classifications and regional cues long used to guide buying decisions are no longer quite so straightforward. While the region’s icons continue to produce assured wines in a classic mould, defined by blending and barrel ageing, a new generation of growers and winemakers are rethinking what Rioja can be. Conventions are being questioned with a greater focus on vineyard expression, often dialling back oak to let fruit and site speak more clearly. The result is a broader, more dynamic spectrum of styles than ever before. Exciting, certainly, but making it less easy to predict what’s in the bottle based on region alone.
A move towards greater site specificity
Alongside this stylistic shift is a growing focus on origin. Rioja has long been understood through its three sub-regions (Rioja Alta/Rioja Alavesa/Rioja Oriental) and ageing classifications (Crianza/Reserva/Gran Reserva) (find out more about these in our Guide to Rioja) – with more emphasis on how the wine is made rather than where it comes from. Whilst these lenses remain relevant, some are questioning their ability to capture the region’s true complexity. Producers are increasingly articulating the specific sub-regions or villages their wines come from. In the Rioja Alavesa, for example, villages such as Labastida, Elvillar, Laguardia and Samaniego are beginning to appear more prominently on labels, each offering subtle differences in altitude, soil composition and exposure. In Rioja Alta, areas like San Vicente de la Sonsierra, Briones and Ábalos are similarly being revisited through a more granular lens, while further east, parts of Rioja Oriental, such as Tudelilla or Aldeanueva de Ebro, are also being reinterpreted through site-specific bottlings.
In reality, Rioja’s patchwork of vineyards is every bit as nuanced as some of the greatest fine wine regions, with comparisons increasingly drawn to Burgundy and Barolo. We are also seeing the introduction of single-vineyard wines and village-level bottlings, which begin to acknowledge the meaningful differences between Rioja’s many municipalities and shift the conversation towards place rather than process. All of this reflects a region of remarkable diversity, with huge variations in altitude, aspect, soils and microclimate – meaning Rioja is far from uniform. It is this complexity that many growers are increasingly seeking to explore and express, even if it makes the region a little less immediately legible than it once was.
The two Rioja camps: Classic and ‘Nuevo Viejo’
So, with all this in motion, how do you actually know what to expect when ordering a bottle of Rioja? I’ve been giving this a lot of thought. With so many emerging producers working in increasingly different ways – particularly in terms of the flavour and profile in the glass, I think it can be helpful (at least for now!) to consider Rioja styles as falling into two broad camps:
Classic – Traditional and Modern
The first camp is the ‘classic’ Rioja, the most traditional of which are defined by a more generous use of oak alongside structure, longevity and spice. It is the style we all know and love, that runs the full spectrum – from easy-drinking, silky, fragrant crianzas (think The Society’s Rioja Crianza and Navajas) and richly expressive, great-value reservas (think Glorioso Reserva) to some of the most complex and age-worthy fine wines in the world (think Rioja Alta and Tondonia). They can offer finesse and complexity, usually ready to drink on release with flavours of tobacco, dried fruit and savoury spice. Here, whilst vintage variation matters, consistency of house style is important, where time in barrel and bottle is not an accessory but a defining element of the wine’s identity. Within this classic camp, there is also a spectrum of more modern interpretations. These wines are built in the image of traditional classics, often following the ageing classifications, but offer more structure and power, often incorporating French oak, or a blend of French and American and often require laying down to develop in bottle. They bridge heritage and evolution, honouring classic methods while subtly adapting them for contemporary palates, think of bodegas such as Muga, Contino and CVNE and Viña Real – producers whose wines have helped define Rioja on the global stage and continue to set the benchmark for classical winemaking in Rioja.
‘Nuevo Viejo’
In contrast, the ‘nuevo viejo’ Rioja represents a more recent reinterpretation and evolution of Rioja’s identity that requires more explanation. Here the focus shifts towards site-driven expressions, more judicious oak, greater emphasis on fruit and a generally fresher profile. While this second camp is sometimes described as ‘modern Rioja’ I like this term ‘nuevo viejo’, which I have shamelessly stolen from Tim Atkin MW who coined it when we were discussing how best to articulate this new wave of producers. Translating literally to ‘new old,’ it more accurately captures the idea that many of these so-called modern Riojas actually represent more of a return to more artisanal methods. A revival of the styles that predate the profound 19th-century influence of France and phylloxera on the region, during which time Bordeaux-inspired practices, such as blending fruit from different villages and ageing in barrel took hold.
The ‘nuevo viejos’ are, broadly speaking, more vineyard-focused than cellar-driven, with an emphasis on expressing site. In practice, this often translates into a more restrained, less interventionist approach in the winery, alongside a renewed interest in artisanal techniques such as whole-bunch fermentation, gentle extraction through foot-treading, and the use of alternative ageing vessels including concrete, amphora, and large old foudres, and French oak only. Many also favour gravity-led winery design and minimal handling to preserve purity and detail.
The growing emphasis on site is seeing many growers highlighting specific villages or parcels on the label, made possible by recent legislative changes that now permit this. In other cases, some producers might champion the more heat-resistant garnacha grape which can thrive in the right hands. Furthermore, an increasing number of growers are choosing to eschew the traditional Crianza/Reserva/Gran Reserva classification, even when their wines would qualify, preferring instead not to be bound by prescribed ageing requirements. This can result in wines with richer, brighter aromatics, more restrained oak, and fruit at centre stage, showing minerality, energy, and often requiring further keeping after release. After spending time exploring some of these approaches, I’m proud to now be introducing a line-up of exceptional talent, featuring emerging bodegas such as Sierra de Toloño, Eguiluz, Javier San Pedro, El Pacto, Carlos Mazo and Pujanza among others.
I must add that the distinction between the camps is not absolute, and many classic bodegas are also exploring site-specific cuvées and more artisanal approaches whilst some producers would arguably lie somewhere in the middle or cover all grounds. Importantly, neither camp is inherently superior – there is ample room for all manner of style and expression, and it is precisely this diversity that makes Rioja so exciting right now.
So, what about white Rioja?
White Rioja also warrants serious attention, with producers now making increasingly compelling wines and treating their whites with the same importance as their reds, despite the far smaller share of production. As with the reds, styles are becoming more diverse, spanning crisp, stainless steel–fermented examples, oxidative, barrel-aged classics, and a growing middle ground of textured, site-driven expressions. At their best, these wines combine complexity with saline freshness and a creamy, oily depth. Viura, long dismissed as a neutral grape, is leading this shift, responding beautifully to oak and oxidative winemaking and producing some of the most versatile, food-friendly whites in Spain. Malvasia and garnacha blanca also play a role in blends and I’m heartened to see some of these older styles returning to the fore. Watch this space as I continue to source parcels that I believe rank among the most exciting I’ve tasted, with new additions to the range to follow.
Try something new and find out your style…
Above all, to help you make choices, don’t be afraid to explore, and more than ever, it pays to know which producers and wines you enjoy, so you can follow their style and journey. Rioja today is not a single style, but a broad spectrum of expressions. My aim is to build a range that reflects this diversity, helping you navigate it with confidence, whether you’re returning to familiar territory or exploring something new.
