If you can't get hold of Carwyn Adams' wonderful Golden Cenarth cheese, from the Carmarthenshire/Cardigan border, use a boxed Camembert or a small Vacherin. Either will take a lively young Burgundy or a smooth, fruity Beaujolais.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas 6.Remove the plastic film but keep the cheese in its wooden box. Add an optional tablespoon of white wine and some finely chopped thyme, along with a grinding of black pepper. Bake until the crust has risen and the cheese is bubbling under it. Remove and cool slightly. Serve on a platter with sourdough bread.