Tarte a l'Oignon
The doyenne of Francophile food writers, Elizabeth David, is an inspiration for the benchmark version of this luscious treat of a tart. Gently fry lots of sliced onions in butter until soft and golden, cool and mix with a couple of large beaten eggs, a large handful of grated gruyère cheese and, departing again from the redoubtable Mrs David’s lead, 300ml of double cream. Line a tart tin with shortcrust pastry and fill with the mixture. Bake in a moderate oven for 20 to 30 minutes until golden on top with a slight but perceptible wobble in the middle. Eat it just barely warm for simple luxury.
Salade niçoise
Salade niçoise is the epitome of Provençal sunshine eating. Like all classic recipes the ingredients list polarises opinion, like the merits of tuna – tinned or fresh? – or anchovies or both (get thee behind me anchovies as far as I’m concerned). Potatoes, green beans or podded broad beans and cucumber are all examples of contentious ingredients, but what is de rigeur with everyone are chopped lettuce, soft-set hard-boiled eggs and, of course, sweet, ripe tomatoes, salty black olives and the gentle bite of something oniony. I think a vinaigrette of red wine vinegar and fruity olive oil is the perfect thing to set off the fresh but punchy flavours, with just a little garlic rubbed around the bowl beforehand, with torn basil leaves a delight too.
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Côtes-du-Rhône, Domaine Jaume 2021
