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Reds with a little spice, plenty of fruit and good bones underpinning everything are what is needed for this great Greek dish of lamb, aubergines and béchamel. Naturally Greek reds are just the thing, marrying sun-ripened fruitiness with freshness and structure. Similarly, Lebanese or Italian reds have the character lift to to elevate every mouthful. Indeed, any red with a balance of freshness and fruity generosity will be delicious.