En primeur: Alma Carraovejas

Capitel is a rare and remarkable expression of old-vine verdejo and is becoming one of Spain’s most respected white wines. Sourced from the single-vineyard Peña Aguda plot in Nieva, at 900 metres above sea level, this exceptional 1.10-hectare vineyard is defined by its unique slate-rich soils and ungrafted pre-phylloxera vines, some of which are more than 200 years old. These old vines offer extraordinary complexity and depth, producing a verdejo of remarkable tension, salinity and longevity. Certified organic and among the longest-established organic vineyards in Castilla y León, Peña Aguda is a site of historical and geological significance with slate formations dating back more than 500 million years. The grapes are hand-harvested, whole-bunch pressed and fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in 228-litre Burgundy barrels, where the wine then spends nine months ageing on its lees. The result is a wine of purity, earthy minerality and freshness, with notes of ginger, salt and with energy that promises fabulous ageing potential. Drink from 2027 to 2042. 13.5%

A blend of local tinto fino (tempranillo), cabernet sauvignon and merlot, this wine balances power and elegance with remarkable ease. Each vintage seems to gain another layer of refinement, and the 2024 is no exception. Still beautifully structured, this year's wine stands out for its fragrant blue-fruited aromatics and purity. A brief spontaneous carbonic maceration at the start of fermentation lends an extra dimension to the fresh and vibrant profile. It opens with an intensely perfumed nose of wildflowers and fresh thyme, layered over concentrated blackcurrant, blueberry and red-compote fruit. The palate is polished and velvety, with fine tannins framing layers of fruit before a long, fresh, fine finish. Very smart. Drink this year to 2040. 15%

Castilla y Léon’s white verdejo grape is not often associated with the world’s leading white wines, yet the young, energetic team behind Ossian at Alma Carraovejas group has been a driving force behind the reimagination of this undervalued grape variety. Ossian, which has been slowly gaining a cult following, comes from some of Spain's oldest ungrafted, pre-phylloxera verdejo vines, is a remarkable and memorable fine white, of purity and finesse. These centenary vines are scattered across high-altitude vineyards in the province of Segovia, Castilla y León. Although the vineyards lie within the Rueda DO, the wine is labelled as VDT Castilla y León, reflecting their independent approach. The old vines are planted on sandy soils, crucial in protecting the vines from the phylloxera louse. Under Pedro's vision and the skilled hands of winemakers Almudena and Javier, every detail is meticulously monitored and every stage of the winemaking process is handled with the utmost care including their conversion to biodynamics which from which they will be certified next vintage. The grapes are hand-harvested into small crates before being gently pressed and then fermented and aged for nine months on the lees in 228 – 600l oak vessels and foudres, using only spontaneous fermentation. This beautiful expression of verdejo is broad and gently waxy in texture, pulled in tightly together by a line of salty, mineral vibrant, acidity and a hint of struck match reduction. Notes of mirabelle plum and dried herbs follow through to a long, tangy and moreish finish. Drink this year to 2036. 13.5%

El Anejón comes from a remarkable south-east facing, 9.43ha terraced vineyard overlooking the Carraovejas Valley on its western slope. One of the first terraced vineyards established in Ribera del Duero, it’s amphitheatre-like setting enjoys views towards Peñafiel Castle, benefitting from excellent sun exposure. The plot is planted predominantly with tinto fino, alongside small amounts of cabernet sauvignon and merlot and the compact limestone-clay soils, create a unique growing environment that gives the wine power and minerality, giving El Anejón a true sense of character and place. Produced only when conditions allow the vineyard to fully express itself, the 2022, which was a warm year, is deep and muscular in its youth, with dense, concentrated blackberry and plum fruits, beautifully integrated with a multitude of spices and florals with balsamic and black olive lingering on from the robust tannins and finely integrated oak. This is a serious wine on any level and a truly outstanding Ribera del Duero which will develop and mature well over time. Drink from 2027 to 2040. 15%