Mount Etna has become one of Italy’s most compelling fine-wine regions. Its dramatic volcanic slopes, high-altitude vineyards and patchwork of ancient lava flows produce wines of remarkable finesse, perfume and freshness.
This First Release offer marks an exciting milestone for The Wine Society. Part of our two-week Italian Fine Wine Spotlight, this in-bond selection brings together some of Etna’s top red wines from four outstanding producers: Pietradolce, Benanti, Donnafugata and Tascante. We are offering these wines ahead of the market, and warmly invite you to discover how special they are.
Order by midday on Tuesday 28th April
These reds are shaped largely by the nerello mascalese grape, which thrives in Etna’s mineral-rich soils, producing wines of aromatic lift, fine tannins and impressive ageing potential.
Selecting the producers was trickier than I first imagined, as there is an embarrassment of riches currently available. We begin with Benanti, a benchmark Etna producer who has been making wine here since the 1890s. Often seen as critical to the modern styles of Etna wines, Guiseppe Benanti focused in on the indigenous grape varieties and terroir focused winemaking nearly 40 years ago. With enviable sites around the volcano, they are well placed to craft classic wines that highlight its complex nuances.
There are also two established Sicilian wineries that have more recently invested in Etna with huge success. The Tasca d’Almerita family have been crafting wines at their central Sicilian estate Tenuta Regaleali since 1830, with a long tradition of sustainably minded viticulture and a focus on Sicily’s indigenous grapes. It was no surprise that they invested in vineyards and a new winery, Tascante, in 2006. Majoring on Etna’s northern slopes, these wines have made purity and minerality their calling card. I also had to include the stylish wines of Donnafugata, which was established by Giacomo and Gabriella Rallo in 1983. The focus is to make some of Etna’s greatest, yet totally sustainable wines, restoring old albarello-trained vines while mending original drystone walls. Production is low and the wines are wonderful.
Finally, over the last 20 years there has been a surge in investment and innovation on the slopes of Etna with a number of exciting younger producers rising to the top – Pietradolce squarely fits within this group forging a global reputation for contemporary Etna fine wine. Established in 2005, they have built a state-of-the-art winery in the heart of Etna’s northern slopes, surrounded by old vineyards that they have painstakingly renovated. The wines have a captivating tension and mineral drive.
Together they offer a comprehensive introduction to Etna’s reds: wines of elegance, energy and unmistakable sense of place. I really hope that this is the start of something that I can expand on year on year, given that these wines offer such great value and totally gastronomic enjoyment.
And if you’re new to the reds of Etna, I have also written a new guide to the region, which you can find here.
