Our two-week Spotlight on Spain is underway, and as part of this celebration of Spanish fine wine, I’m thrilled to give you the chance to reserve the wines of two remarkable producers. Xosé Lois Sebio is a rising star in Galicia: a talented winemaker earning a well-deserved place on the fine wine stage. Pago de Carraovejas is a class act from one of Ribera del Duero’s modern pioneers, a name that has helped shape the region’s contemporary reputation.
Both are rooted in place, driven by vision, fuelled by passion and are at the top of their game. Find out more about them below.
Order by midday on Wednesday 6th August
Xosé Lois Sebio: the heart and soul of Galicia
During my most recent trip to Galicia, few people captured a region’s spirit with such honest expression than Xosé Lois. He is outspoken, passionate, uncompromising and creative, and I was transfixed by his knowledge, sheer determination and energy, qualities that somehow find their way into his sensational wines.
After two decades at Coto de Gomariz, one of Ribeiro’s leading estates, Xosé set out to forge his own path. Slowly and sustainably, he began buying fruit, and then vineyards, from neighbouring growers. It’s no surprise to me that he has managed to acquire some of the oldest and most sought-after plots in Gomariz, considering his clear respect and integrity he shows both people and place.
His projects today are a collection of tiny-lot, high-altitude wines from unique plots, where his imagination runs wild. Here, he blends Ribeiro’s ancient traditions with a quietly rebellious streak. He works organically and biodynamically (though not certified), always with a light touch in the winery, gentle extractions, minimal new oak. There’s energy, vibrancy and, above all, purity.
I’ve chosen three wines that feel like an introduction to Xosé’s world, wines of place and purpose, made by someone who deeply understands the land and is determined to protect it. For me, this release is more than just a set of great wines: it’s a snapshot of what makes Galicia one of the most exciting places in Spain right now. And it’s thanks to winemakers like Xosé Lois Sebio that it’s finally getting the attention it deserves.
Pago de Carraovejas 2023: a brilliant Ribera del Duero
I am also very excited to offer members the chance to buy the generous and structured 2023 vintage of the highly acclaimed Pago de Carraovejas from Ribera del Duero. Now our second release, we’ve skipped straight to the 2023, which shows the same depth and finesse as the 2021 vintage released last year.
Pago de Carraovejas, of the Alma Carrovejas estates, was first produced in 1991. Its existence is almost entirely down to one man, José Maria Ruiz. Having represented Spain in the world sommelier awards, José Maria decided to found a restaurant which was entirely focused on producing organic suckling pigs, in a land where lamb had previously held fort. The restaurant became renowned for serving suckling pigs so tender that they could be sliced with the edge of plate and attracted both locals and premier league football teams alike.
When José Maria realised that there was no wine elegant enough to pair with his suckling pig, he decided to make his own, and thus Pago de Carraovejas was born. A blend of local tinto fino (tempranillo), cabernet sauvignon and merlot, the wine straddles being both full-bodied and serious and elegant and approachable, owing to a brief spontaneous carbonic maceration at the start of the fermentation process. The incredible concentration of blackcurrant and berry-compote-like fruit is bound by a polished, velvety structure. It drinks well now but has all the hallmarks of a wine that will continue to age.
Fine Wine Spotlight: live now!
Discover more from this two-week Spanish fine-wine celebration – a Wine Society first – including mature Riojas, Galician icons of the future and much more!