Domaine Bargylus is Syria’s only private wine estate, and from their first vintage in 2006 they have been intensely focused on producing high-quality wine with real eastern mediterranean soul, despite the many challenges they are faced with. This estate has succeeded in its commitment to the region in being able to present fine wine on the world stage from Syria.
The story surrounding Bargylus may be noteworthy for the determination in making wine altogether, yet this shouldn’t detract from the fact that these wines are utterly delicious. The wines regularly earn high praise from leading wine writers, including Jancis Robinson MW. Currently it is proving difficult to get wine out of Syria; but I am thrilled to be able to offer you some of their older vintages that they have been storing in Belgium and are ready to drink and be enjoyed. These are truly unique wines that offer immense pleasure.
Order by midday on Tuesday 28th July
The estate is owned and run by two Syrian-Lebanese brothers, Karim and Sandro Saddé. It was initially their father who was drawn back to his family’s hometown of Latakia, in the north-west of Syria and close to the ancient city of Antioch. Having previously been landowners and industrialists, the Christian Orthodox Saadé family had to leave the region in the 50s, where they settled in Beirut, but they had longed to return.
The family made the leap and started planting in 2003. They now have 12 hectares planted to syrah, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. The vines go up to 1,000 metres altitude along the coastal mountain range of Jebel Al-Ansariyé (previously known as Mount Bargylus), which helps bring freshness to the wines. The region also experiences significant diurnal shifts and high rainfall that contributes to the wines’ energy and acidity.
What is truly remarkable is that the brothers have had to manage the winery remotely since war broke out in 2011, with grape samples sent over the border in taxis and Zoom and Facetime winemaking calls are standard practice. Administratively and logistically getting the wines out of Syria continues to be a challenge.
Winemaking in any environment can prove challenging. Producing good-quality wine every vintage in a country where there isn’t an established wine culture, war and conflict is prevalent, earthquakes are to be expected and economic instability a reality is not for the fainthearted. The brothers are determined and the resulting wines are a remarkable testament to all their efforts. They didn’t come from a wine background and trained themselves, along with their vineyard and winery workers and have worked with renowned Bordeaux wine consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt since the beginning. Flexibility is key, but quality is not compromised.
