For many members, the annual arrival of Once & Future has become one of the highlights of our California calendar. Production remains tiny, the wines are allocated sparingly and they invariably sell quickly, making this year's release one to act on while stocks last.
Order by midday on Tuesday 7th July
Founded by California zinfandel pioneer Joel Peterson after his retirement from Ravenswood, Once & Future is dedicated to preserving some of California's oldest and most characterful vineyards. Working with ancient, often own rooted vines across Sonoma and Napa, Joel's philosophy is simple: traditional winemaking, minimal intervention and a determination to let each historic site tell its own story. Fermentations take place with indigenous yeasts, many in the same redwood open-top tanks he has used for decades, producing wines that are as individual as the vineyards themselves.
The 2023 collection once again demonstrates why these bottlings have such a devoted following. Belloni is wonderfully floral and perfumed from century-old Russian River vines; Old Hill Ranch, with vines approaching 140 years of age, is one of California's great historic vineyards, combining spice, depth and remarkable structure. Teldeschi's Frank's Block offers the power and concentration that has led Joel to describe it as one of California's 'grands crus', while Napa's Dickerson Vineyard delivers extraordinary intensity from venerable old vines. Green & Red completes the line-up with a beautifully balanced expression of Napa zinfandel, full of dark fruit, spice and freshness. Each wine is a compelling expression of its vineyard and a pleasure in their expressive youth, but also a wonderful treat for any cellar.
