Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2021

Gevrey is the largest of the Côte-de-Nuits communes with nine of the 24 Côte-de-Nuits grands crus. Douhin-Laroze was founded around 1850. Philippe Drouhin took over from his father Bernard in 2001 and the quality of the wines has since catapulted the domaine into the top flight. This 11-hectare estate includes the following grands crus: 1.49ha of Bonnes Mares, a tiny bit of Musigny, 1.47ha of Chambertin Clos de Bèze, 1.02ha of Clos de Vougeot, 0.67ha of Latricières-Chambertin, and 0.51ha of Chapelle-Chambertin. In addition, there are also Gevrey premiers crus in Lavaux St Jacques and Clos Prieur as well as this lovely village Gevrey.

The classic style of vinification is much aided by the domaine’s magnificent two-storey cellars which were constructed in 1815 and provide the ideal conditions for the maturation of the wines. After fermentation the wine is run off into barrels in the top cellar, which, being less deep, is subject to useful seasonal temperature variation which is put to use in the maturation of the wine. The cool autumn temperatures in continental Burgundy help naturally clarify the wine and prevent the start of the malolactic fermentation which Burgundians like to delay. As temperatures rise the following spring the malo begins. The previous year’s wine in the bottom cellar is bottled between February and April leaving space for the new wine. After the malo has finished the wines are racked into barrels in the lower cellar whose constant temperature is ideal for a further year’s maturation in barrel, after which the wine is bottled.