Domaine Henri Boillot, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Clos de la Mouchère 2023

Henri Boillot makes wine from his family’s vineyards and also from vineyards owned by others as a very hands-on négociant-style business. Henri is the fifth generation of his family to make wine in Burgundy and since 2006 he has worked with his son Guillaume, who now makes the red wines, at their new state-of-the-art winery in Meursault where all the Domaine and ‘négociant’ wines (under the label of Maison Henri Boillot) are made.

Before striking out on his own in 1984 Henri had worked for the family firm but his success in his own right convinced his grandfather Jean Boillot to persuade him to return to the fold. In 2005 Henri bought out his brother and sister and renamed the domaine name from Domaine Jean Boillot to Domaine Henri Boillot to avoid confusion with his brother Jean-Marc Boillot's company.

The domaine consists of some 19 hectares, mostly in Puligny and Meursault for white wines where he owns the monopole of Clos de la Mouchere, and in Savigny-les-Beaunes, Beaune and Volnay for reds.

In the vineyard Henri and Guillaume farm sustainably, avoiding artificial pesticides and herbicides, and much hard work in the vineyard means low yields of relatively late-picked fruit at a peak of ripeness. The whites are very gently crushed to avoid bitter flavours and fermented in barrels larger than the norm at 350 litres so that the purity and freshness of the fruit is unencumbered, and bottling follows 18 months or so in barrel. Pinot noir grapes are sorted in the vineyard before being taken to the winery, destemmed, crushed and cold soaked before a fairly long fermentation. 18 months in barriques is the norm before being bottle unfined and unfiltered.