Saint-Péray Brut Les Bulles d'Alain, Domaine Voge 2019

The late Alain Voge began working at his family domaine in 1958 when wine was not its specialism. Defying the relative indifference of the world to the wines of Cornas and Saint-Péray at that time Alain decided that wine was the way forward and he began to put more and more of energies into this branch of farming as he took charge. He refurbished the vineyards they owned and recovered land that had lain dormant, and bottling his own wines rather than send them to a cooperative or a négociant. Now the domain owns vineyards in, and makes wines from, several appellations: Cornas, Sain-Péray, Saint-Joseph and Côtes-du-Rhône, all of which are now farmed biodynamically.

The Cornas comes from 6.5 hectares of syrah planted in decomposing granite soils known locally as gore. Alain shared the load here with Albéric Mazoyer, who formerly worked as cellar master at Chapoutier, who vinified the wines until 2018 when he was succeeded by Lionel Fraisse. The various parcels are harvested separately, as each comes to perfect ripeness. The grapes are destemmed and vinified in stainless steel before going to casks. Time in wood varies depending on the cuvée. These are traditional wines of dark fruit and concentration and are the basis for the fine Voge reputation.

The Saint-Péray is mostly old marsanne which represents 95% of the vines, with 5% of roussanne in support, planted over 4 hectares. Both still and sparkling wines are made, with the grapes for the sparkling picked earlier to retain the all-important acidity necessary to make high-quality bubbly. The fruit destined for the still white wines are picked much later to ensure the maturity that will best display the terroir and aromatics of the grapes.

This domaine had built an enviable reputation over the years and the arrival of Albéric Mazoyer gave it a new lease of life some ten years ago. It is undoubtedly among the very best producers in the Rhône.