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Stéphane Aviron, Chénas 2019

4.500000000 star rating 4 Reviews
From vines planted over a century ago, this has fresh soft fruit character, good depth of flavour and impressive length on the palate. A fine example of one of the Beaujolais region's lesser-known crus.
is no longer available
Code: BJ8851

Wine characteristics

  • Red Wine
  • Medium-bodied
  • Gamay
  • 13% Alcohol
  • no oak influence
  • Cork, diam

Beaujolais

At its best, there is little that can match Beaujolais' fragrant, sappy, fruity flavours. Beaujolais tends to be a delight to drink upon release; indeed, extolling the wines' youthful virtues has been hugely successful.

At one time more than half the crop of this region was hurriedly fermented and sold as Beaujolais Nouveau, released on the third Thursday of November and raced to market in as many inventive ways as possible. Its cheap price and fun image made it popular for a while but, inevitably, quality suffered and Nouveau fell out of fashion in the face of new world competition.

Away from Beaujolais Nouveau, another kind of Beaujolais continued to be made, often using very traditional methods of production and reflecting a complexity of terroir that still comes as something of a surprise.

Beaujolais lies between the towns of Mâcon and Lyon with most of the vineyard confusingly coming into the Département du Rhône. The vast majority of the region's 18,500 hectares ...

At its best, there is little that can match Beaujolais' fragrant, sappy, fruity flavours. Beaujolais tends to be a delight to drink upon release; indeed, extolling the wines' youthful virtues has been hugely successful.

At one time more than half the crop of this region was hurriedly fermented and sold as Beaujolais Nouveau, released on the third Thursday of November and raced to market in as many inventive ways as possible. Its cheap price and fun image made it popular for a while but, inevitably, quality suffered and Nouveau fell out of fashion in the face of new world competition.

Away from Beaujolais Nouveau, another kind of Beaujolais continued to be made, often using very traditional methods of production and reflecting a complexity of terroir that still comes as something of a surprise.

Beaujolais lies between the towns of Mâcon and Lyon with most of the vineyard confusingly coming into the Département du Rhône. The vast majority of the region's 18,500 hectares is planted with a single red grape: gamay, or to be more precise, gamay noir à jus blanc. Often densely planted to help control the vines vigour, and therefore yields, trained low and pruned hard, they are need at least a short spell of real heat to ripen properly. In terms of soil, gamay does not do well on sedimentary rock types. Much of Beaujolais is granite with outcrops of schist in part of Morgon or Andesites in the Cote de Brouilly.

A little over 200 hectares is planted with chardonnay, which is growing in popularity because it is easier to sell and can be turned into sparkling Cremant de Bourgogne. White Beaujolais is sold either as Beaujolais blanc or Beaujolais-Villages blanc, and the best comes areas with chalk in the soil.

Below is a list of the appellations, but it is worth mentioning that the most important factor in the wines' quality is the grower.

Beaujolais: Mostly from the south where the soils are often of a limestone called pierres dorées, which makes excellent building material. But there are granites as well and a great many styles of wine possible though a major part of the productions continues to be made as Nouveau.

Beaujolais-Villages: These wines come from the north and are set among the ten crus and planted on the same granitic soils. 38 parishes are allowed to produce Beaujolais-Villages. They offer a midway point between generic Beaujolais and the greater complexity of the crus.

The ten crus, from north to south, are: Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Regnié, Brouilly and Côte de Brouilly. Each have their own unique variation on the local geology and topography, climatic conditions and character; from the light, fragrant Chiroubles to the richer, more concentrated Moulin-à-Vent with its ability to age and comparison in great years with top Burgundies.

Within these crus are specific vineyards, or climats, with deserved reputations for high-quality, such as Poncié in Fleurie or Côte du Py in Morgon. For a more thorough examination of these crus and their characteristic traits please see our How to Buy Beaujolais guide in the Wine World & News section of our website.

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Stéphane Aviron

Adopting Burgundian methods in the winery, Stéphane Aviron makes wines that are a far cry from the lighter easy-drinkers that Beaujolais had become best known for.

Stéphane is from Beaujolais stock, the son of a broker and grower in the appellation, who saw from close up that his home region had an image problem. Having studied at the Lycée Vinicole in Beaune (alongside Nicolas Potel, the Burgundian winemaker and négociant, more of which later) he returned to Beaujolais with a clear-eyed determination to make the best wines possible, focussing entirely on cru vineyards and old vines, farmed organically and biodynamically.

His wines are not made by the tannin-softening carbonic maceration method of many Beaujolais, and after time in oak, about a quarter of which is new, have the structure to age well. They are clearly expressive of their place and the quality of fruit that old vines can bring.

Low yields, sometimes almost down to 25 hl/ha, contribute to the concentration of the fruit and for some wines some 10 months in oak, several months longer than most Beaujolais winemakers employ, contributes to the ageability of the wine, contributing tannins as well as development.

More recently Stéphane has joined forces with Nicolas Potel to create a négociant business with the aim of finding plots of old vines throughout Beaujolais and wherever possible getting the winemakers at each site to apply their exacting standards to the making of the wine.

Beaujolais Vintage 2019

Good to very good wines at ‘cru’ level (the top appellations such as Fleurie, Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent) but more patchy for Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages from the southern part of the region. 2019 was a challenging year for growers, keeping them on their toes with capricious weather. Frost early in the season, summer drought and several August hailstorms in rapid succession were all disruptive. The harvest was also small with yields down about 25% on the yearly average. Nonetheless there are very good wines to be had, partly thanks to the reductions in yield and the grapes ripening well after a little rain in August helped them to stay the course. Less rich than 2017 and 2018, the 2019s are fresh and appealing, and the top wines will age well.

2018 vintage reviews
2017 vintage reviews

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