Vadio Tinto, Bairrada 2022

Elegant, Barolo-esque red from a small family-owned estate in Bairrada, produced from the local baga grape. Much like how nebbiolo, the world-class variety behind Barolo, suffered an unfair reputation for many years, baga has also unjustly been thought of as slightly too rustic and needing a long time for the tannins to soften. But, just as was proven with the Italian comparison, it all comes down to winemaking. Luís Patrão is an experienced winemaker, formerly of Herdade do Esporão in the Alentejo and whose day job is winemaker for outstanding estate Tapada de Coelheiros. Vinhos Vadio is his personal project in partnership with his wife Eduarda, which they run in Luís' home-village. Luís and Eduarda have worked to achieve the potential of this exciting Portuguese red variety through improved vineyard practices and gentle winemaking and as a result has demonstrated that the variety can make serious, finessed and very fine red wines. This is the flagship red for Vadio. produced from around 20 small plots of vines, all wild fermented separately. The nose has depth, with dark plum, black cherry, rose petal and a hint of cassis, with an attractive forest floor character. The palate is fresh, lifted, with vibrant acidity and full grippy tannins. Vividly structured but with a pretty and fine flavour profile. The fruit develops towards the finish, showing more in the way of blueberry fruits, along with violets and rose petals.