Making wine on a small island comes with its own unique set of quirks and challenges. Sicily, Madeira, Tasmania and Greece, all work with limited production volumes, shipping logistics, and the open-to-all elements weather. The latest island to get in on winemaking? The UK. We love talking about our weather, and now we have a whole industry as an excuse.
Although relatively new, winemaking in England is far from a flash in the pan. Readers who can cast their minds back to the early attempts of the 1970s and 1980s may recoil at distant memories of thin, astringent wines with strip-your-teeth acidity. But that was then. Now, world-class sparkling wines are beating off competition from French counterparts. Producers like Nyetimber, Ridgeview and Gusbourne are earning impressive reputations for England on the world stage, and now the Champenois want a slice of the action. Taittinger is set to open doors to Domaine Evremond in Kent any day now.
The quality of our sparkling wines, with their golden hues, apple blossom and elderflower notes, and rich toasted depths, speaks for itself. Winemaking in cool-climate England isn't without its challenges though, perhaps surprisingly, winemakers say it’s not the fresh temperature nor the famous British rain that causes the issue, but the unpredictability. Hard-earned solutions to the challenges of one vintage become irrelevant for the next, and so producers must constantly adapt. This innovation marks a part of our winemaking identity.
One benefit of being a new-wave, emerging region is having a blank canvas – fewer rules and more freedom. And, in true British spirit, we like to rebel. Another benefit, or perhaps even a defining characteristic, of being an industry born in this day and age is that the topic of sustainability is a cornerstone, not an afterthought. Many wineries are designed around sustainable practices from the start, with gravity-fed winery systems, solar-powered vehicles, lighter bottles, and more. English winemakers are leading the way in many ways, pioneering and implementing eco-friendly practices.
What sustainability looks like in England
Contrary to sceptical belief, there are no more challenges for English wineries to practise sustainability than any other region. In fact, as an up-and-coming region, we have less to battle with in the way of long-standing traditions, free from the shackles of ‘it’s always been done that way’ and more freedom to experiment, for better or worse. Winemakers are blending traditional techniques with innovation and experimentation, with promising results.
From the ground up
Many good-quality English vineyards lie on chalk, greensand, and limestone, providing the bright, fresh acidity that is the backbone of world-class fine sparkling wine. The rolling green hills of Kent and Sussex, with their gentle slopes, are typically easy to manage compared to, say, the steep terraces or mountain terrains of the Douro or Mosel Valley. Organic practices, which eschew synthetic chemicals in favour of natural alternatives, are gaining traction, with producers like Oxney Organic and Albury proving that quality and commercial viability can go hand in hand.
Biodynamic viticulture, integrating lunar cycles and holistic farming practices, is showing promising results. Some new-wave and iconoclastic producers are experimenting with once-scorned crossing and hybrid grape varieties that thrive in cooler, wetter climates with less need for pampering.
World-renowned wineries such as Nyetimber are planting trees, rewilding meadows, and incorporating sheep grazing within vineyards. Senior winemaker Brad Greatrix explains how environmental stewardship and high-quality production go hand in hand. ‘It’s something we keep front of mind,’ he says. ‘Firstly, because we’re 100% estate-owned, and high-quality wines come from high-quality vines, which come from high-quality vineyard sites, so we have this natural link and responsibility, and drive to look after the land and the area that surrounds our vines.’
Within the vineyards, alternate rows are left unmown among the vines all throughout the growing season, providing space where wild flowers can grow and insects can thrive. ‘Having a diverse set of organisms and plants around provides a natural resilience which means that you need less intervention,’ Brad explains. ‘I think you can put energy into both of those things: sustainability and high-quality production; and have them be synergistic rather than antagonistic.’
In the winery
Tesla charging stations, solar panels, state-of-the-art water recycling systems and biomass boilers are just some of the ways in which wineries like Denbies Wine Estate and Rathfinny are working to reduce carbon footprints. Others are exploring lightweight, recyclable packaging to reduce the carbon footprint associated with bottle production and transportation. Tamara Roberts, CEO of Ridgeview, explains: ‘Sustainability is a necessity and a given for any industry. People think that becoming sustainable is an additional cost to the business, but it can be the opposite, provided you’ve got a long-term view. There can be an upfront cost in terms of technology, so people can see that as a barrier. You need to look much further ahead. Reducing usage of energy, water, chemicals, these are all cost savings.’
On balancing environmental sustainability with economic viability, Tamara says: 'As a certified B Corp business, there isn’t a single decision we make that doesn’t look at the sustainability impact of that decision, versus profitability, versus all the other things. Businesses need to be economically sustainable - we do need to make sure that we have an appropriate yield at the required quality. We view and make decisions in line with the four pillars of sustainability; people, place, profit, and environment.’
A sustainable future
Sustainable winemaking encompasses more than organic production. It requires a holistic approach, balancing all four pillars: people, place, profit, and environment. Research and collaboration are key drivers of innovation in sustainable winemaking. English winemakers are partnering with academic institutions, industry bodies, and environmental organisations to advance sustainable practices.
The journey towards sustainable winemaking in England is dynamic and ongoing, driven by a growing commitment from winemakers and consumers alike. Though an emerging region, this small island is on its way to earning a big reputation as a leader in sustainable winemaking.
Producers making a difference
Explore our range of wines specially selected from producers making a difference.
