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The high chocolate content of this over-the-top but hard to resist dessert-cum-biscuit cries out for the richest and sweetest of wines. Sweet fortified reds from grenache or tannat are ideal; sparkling Aussie shiraz can work and Malmsey Madeira is a good fall-back. Janet Wynne Evans’ Chocs Away recipe is a great variation on the theme, making use of all the dried fruits, nuts and biscuits that can hang around long after the Christmas decorations have been taken down.