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A vegetarian version of the great Greek dish is a wonderful thing, deploying the familiar aubergines of the meaty method but adding potato, courgette or spinach and other goodies, all topped with the classic béchamel sauce. Greek reds, with their sun-ripened fruitiness have pleasing juiciness and structure to work with or cut through everything. Any juicy, fruity red will sing here, as will characterful Greek or Italian whites.