Walter Speller, writing for JancisRobinson.com, summed up 2023 as ‘not easy but beguiling’, which neatly captures a challenging growing season that has produced some incredibly charming wines. Despite another hot year, the best 2023 Barbarescos are refreshing approachable, with fragrant red fruit, floral perfume, fine tannins and an energy that you might not expect given the conditions.
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It is not a vintage where quality is consistent across the region, so careful selection has been particularly important. I have kept this release focused on the wines that impressed me most, from producers we know and trust.
Alongside beautifully expressive Barbarescos from Einaudi, Castello di Verduno, Massolino and Produttori del Barbaresco, there is a particularly exciting collection of single-vineyard wines. Paitin offers the chance to compare Serraboella and Faset, while Rizzi gives us Rizzi, Nervo and Pajorè, alongside Poderi Colla’s excellent Roncaglie.
For those wanting to explore the vintage more broadly, we have also put together a mixed case, bringing together some of my highlights from the selection and offering a fascinating introduction to the different expressions of Barbaresco in 2023. Together, these wines provide a revealing snapshot of the vintage: at their best, the 2023s favour perfume, freshness and finesse over sheer power, and I think they will give considerable pleasure relatively early in their lives.
