First release: Rioja 2022

A vertical tasting of Imperial I attended last year had wines dating back to 1947, which confirmed to me that these are serious Riojas that age with remarkable grace, if you like fully mature styles, while reflecting the character of each vintage. The hot, Mediterranean 2022 vintage has produced a firmer, richer and spicier wine, yet one that still delivers complexity and balance, demonstrating why CVNE Imperial remains one of Spain's greatest classic Riojas. The 2022 is released early exclusively for Wine Society members. Hailing from Rioja Alta, it is a blend of predominantly tempranillo with some mazuelo and a touch of graciano. First produced in the 1920s, its name comes after a special bottling for the English market, in a measure called 'Pinta Imperial` or 'Imperial Pint` (an Imperial pint, half a litre approximately). Sturdy and spicy with flattering oak, fine-tannins and plummy fruit. Drink from 2028 to 2035. 14%

Finca Allende Gaminde is a single six-hectare expression of Briones tempranillo with a touch of graciano, planted over 80 years ago. Miguel Ángel de Gregorio is one of Rioja's great visionaries, dedicated to showcasing the individual character of the vineyards in and around Briones, in the north-west of Rioja Alta. In the hot 2022 vintage, Gaminde, which we’ve not offered before, stole the show. Planted on red clay soils, which retain moisture in warm years while adding depth and structure, and benefiting from the fresher Atlantic influence of its elevated site, the wine is powerful, generous and mouth-filling, yet beautifully balanced by vibrant acidity. Aged in new French oak it’s an inky, intensely structured Rioja with tremendous backbone, built for the long haul. Drink from 2028 to 2042. 14.5%

Roda is producing wines which have more structure and colour in their youth than the old fashioned houses but retain the Rioja character. Indeed, with bottle age the Roda wines shed their puppy fat and emerge as fine, aromatic Riojas with a little more richness on the palate than the more traditionally-styled wines. The hot, dry 2022 vintage has produced grip and concentration, with ripe black fruit and notes of thyme, rosemary ,lavender and subtle cedary spice from 14 months' ageing in French oak barrels. The herbal notes give a perfumed lift to this juicy, stylish reserva that will age superbly. Drink from this year to 2038. 14%

Drink from 2028 to 2038. 14%

The team at Viña Real have produced a good value, dense style of classic Reserva from the hot and challenging 2022 vintage, which they have released early especially for Wine Society members, achieving an impressive balance between rich, fleshy dark fruit and the firmer structure and grip that characterise the year. While not quite matching the effortless harmony of the outstanding 2021, it remains true to the house style, with plenty of depth, savoury complexity and the ability to develop further in bottle. Drink from 2027 to 2036. 14%