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Brézème Rouge, Domaine de Bréseyme 2017

Red Wine from France - Rhone
Full-flavoured, ripe-tasting syrah from a tiny enclave of vines somewhat between the northern and southern Rhône, this is on steeply sloping vineyards that overlook the river Drôme. Stylistically somewhere between Crozes and Cornas, but with the finesse of a Côte-Rôtie.
Price: £22.00 Bottle
Price: £132.00 Case of 6
In Stock
Code: RH57521

Wine characteristics

  • Red Wine
  • Light to medium-bodied
  • Syrah/Shiraz
  • 12.5% Alcohol
  • Oak used but not v. noticeable
  • Now to 2027
  • 75cl
  • Cork, natural

Northern Rhône

A narrow, funnel-shaped vineyard extends on both sides of the Rhône from Vienne in the north to Valance in the south. The scenery is often dramatic with many of the vineyards perched precariously on the steep valley sides. The wines match the scenery: deeply coloured, fine, spicy reds made from the syrah grape and rich, full-bodied whites made from marsanne and roussanne grapes, or the more aromatic viognier up in Condrieu. Granite, sandy silica and clay soils predominate though small traces of limestone may also be found in Hermitage, Crozes and Cornas.

Production here is relatively small, accounting for less than 3% of the total for the Rhône Valley. Most of the wines are sold by appellation with three being white only, two red only and three others where both red and white can be made. The appellation Côtes-du-Rhône is rarely seen in the north and may well disappear altogether. On the other hand, full use is made of the vin de pays/vin de France category which allows producers to...
A narrow, funnel-shaped vineyard extends on both sides of the Rhône from Vienne in the north to Valance in the south. The scenery is often dramatic with many of the vineyards perched precariously on the steep valley sides. The wines match the scenery: deeply coloured, fine, spicy reds made from the syrah grape and rich, full-bodied whites made from marsanne and roussanne grapes, or the more aromatic viognier up in Condrieu. Granite, sandy silica and clay soils predominate though small traces of limestone may also be found in Hermitage, Crozes and Cornas.

Production here is relatively small, accounting for less than 3% of the total for the Rhône Valley. Most of the wines are sold by appellation with three being white only, two red only and three others where both red and white can be made. The appellation Côtes-du-Rhône is rarely seen in the north and may well disappear altogether. On the other hand, full use is made of the vin de pays/vin de France category which allows producers to make slightly simpler wines from young vines or from vines that for one reason or another were not included in any appellation.

Seyssuel
There is no appellation Seyssuel. These steep vineyards on the left bank close to Vienne were once famous but fell into obscurity after phylloxera wiped them out in the 19th century. Since the late 1990s, however, there has been a move to reclaim this valuable land for the vine. Many growers are involved here and the results are extremely good. The wines are broadly similar to Côte-Rôtie in style but maybe riper and more dramatic, the vines, after all, face the evening sun and there is more heat here than in Côte-Rôtie. Full appellation status is probably just a few years away after the efforts of Ogier, Villard and Villa have done so much to put it on the map.

Côte-Rôtie
Red only. The “roasted slope”, only half an hour’s drive south of Beaujolais, this northernmost outpost of the syrah grape produces wines that at times can match Burgundy for delicacy and charm. The vineyard is very steep with an incline of as much as 60 degrees. Guigal is the most important producer attracting the highest prices, but there are dozens of smallholders making interesting wines. Guigal has made new oak very fashionable and many growers use it sometimes to excess.

Condrieu
White only from the viognier grape. The scent of apricot in a good example of Condrieu is almost intoxicating. Rapid expansion of vineyards means that there are lots of young vines and therefore wines that lack substance, so there is good reason to get to know the better growers, such as André Perret, François Villard and Christophe Pichon, and follow them..

Saint-Joseph
Reds from syrah and whites from marsanne and roussanne; reds are more exciting. The best Saint-Josephs have class and can be good value. Some of the best slopes are only now being replanted after years of neglect, so huge potential. Many top producers have started to bring out single-vineyard Saint-Josephs. All can be brilliant and though pricey, offer better value than top-end Côte-Rôties for example. Look for the grower’s name.

Crozes-Hermitage
Reds are made from syrah and whites from marsanne and roussanne. Crozes-Hermitage accounts for more than half of the northern Rhône and its wines are plentiful and accessible. Reds are better than whites. Crozes-Hermitage comes in two parts. The largest is on the flat, close to the river and what would have been a river bed. It produces deeply coloured reds that are soft and fruity and without question a perfect introduction to the syrah of the north. The other part is behind the hill of Hermitage, sometimes on granite but mostly on white clay and limestone. This is the historic heart of Crozes producing wines of interest and substance and the whites from here can be outstanding too.


Hermitage
Syrah for reds, marsanne with a little roussanne for whites. This amazing southfacing slope has the greatest pedigree of any wine in the Rhône Valley. Its complex geology ensures added interest and complexity and in good years, Hermitage may sit at the highest tables. The downside is that the quality and reputation of Hermitage wines from the best producers means that there is a very limited supply of the best wines, and prices are set to rise.


Cornas
Red only from syrah. It is a small appellation nestling in a half amphitheatre of mostly granite, all facing fully south. The climate here is significantly warmer so Cornas is often among the first to harvest. Wines are black, thick and often tannic in their youth. Style is changing and quality is on the up, almost matching Hermitage. Cornas remains an uncompromising wine and rewards good food. Always decant.

Saint-Péray
White only made from marsanne and roussanne. The granite of Cornas gives way to limestone. The wines have more acidity and keep well. For some unaccountable reason, historically, most of the wine was sparkling but mercifully things are changing. There is big potential for fine whites. Producer’s name is essential.

The Drôme Valley
This is a major tributary of the Rhône that rises in the Alps and joins up with the Rhône to the south of Valence. At the western end there are a few vineyards, mostly of syrah and sold as Côtes-du- Rhône Brézème. This is rare, very little known and amazingly good-value source for Crozes-like reds. Further east, the landscape becomes more mountainous and the grapes mostly white, clairette and muscat and wines are mostly sparkling. Clairette de Die is light and sweet, a bit like Italian Asti, while Crémant de Die is dry and full-flavoured.
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Domaine des Alexandrins

Alexandre Caso and Guillaume Sorrel are the men behind Domaine des Alexandrins. Having begun the enterprise as an agency supplying specialised labour for vineyard work, Alexandre’s first employee was Guillaume, son of renowned winemaker Marc Sorrel. The business did so well that Alexandre soon offered Guillaume a partnership.

Having made a success of their business they then decided to diversify a little and rented some neglected vines in Saint-Joseph in 2009, a hectare in Crozes-Hermitage in 2011 and a further parcel of Saint-Joseph at Tournon in 2012. They now control some 10 hectares in total.

Using the facilities of Chapoutier, Marc Sorrel and now their own winery at Mercurol they have made a variety of wines. They use no pesticides or herbicides and work each vineyard with real respect for the environment. The harvest is all done by hand and brought to the stone walled winery where bunches are destemmed and fermented in concrete followed by a three day maceration. The wines are then aged between one and four years in barrel. The results are very promising indeed.

Northern Rhône Vintage 2017

Northern syrahs are lush, rich and succulent with the flavours of
dark fruit and gentle spice. The grapes reached perfect levels of
ripeness, so the tannins are round and well integrated. 2017 is
another great vintage for hermitage, offering concentration and
density thanks to low yields. The same is true for the rest with
Crozes-Hermitage, the biggest of the appellations, deserving
special mention.

Most growers quickly realised that care was needed in making
white wines that were not too heavy and flabby. Grapes were
picked early, sometimes at night to retain freshness. There was
often less extraction and less use of oak. I loved the wines from
Saint-Péray as they always preserve what is sometimes called
‘minerality’. Viognier-based wines, including of course condrieu, are
wonderfully exuberant.
2017 vintage reviews
2016 vintage reviews

joannasimon.com

I'm getting in early with this because when I tried to recommend the 2016 it had sold out (Wine Society members clearly know a good new thing when they see it). If you tasted the 2016...
I'm getting in early with this because when I tried to recommend the 2016 it had sold out (Wine Society members clearly know a good new thing when they see it). If you tasted the 2016 you'll know that it was northern Rhône-style Syrah at its most bewitchingly pure, perfumed and peppery. The 2017 is equally delicious, but more opulent – more Cornas, perhaps, than Côte-Rôtie – although both are a comfortably moderate 12.5% abv. The 2017 opens with a wave of blackberry, raspberry and violet-scented fruit, follows with ripples of iodine, white pepper and the herbal spiciness of fresh bay leaves and sits on a bed of soft tannins. The nut-sweet oak is a just little more prominent than in the 2016, but the latter was nine months older when I tasted it. Both were aged for 15 months in 2–3-year-old barrels (and were whole-bunch vinified). To give this glorious wine its context, Brézème Côtes du Rhône is a tiny appellation (one day it's bound to be standalone Brézème) lying to the south of the northern Rhône. It's very much northern Rhône in spirit, with Syrah as the red grape variety and Marsanne, Viognier and Roussanne for the even tinier production of white wines, but its soils – clay-limestone – are very different. Domaine de Bréseyme was bought by Nicolas Jaboulet in 2018 and has 3.5ha devoted to red Brézème and 0.5ha of white. Happily, there is more land available for planting.  The 2017 can be drunk any time over the next five or six years with lamb, peppery steak, game birds, the likes of saucisse de Morteau, diot de Savoie and Italian sausages, sweet root vegetables or wintry casseroles. I enjoyed it with Gressingham duck, spiced squash purée and puy lentilles.
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- Joanna Simon

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