Dolcetto d'Alba, GB Burlotto 2024

The small Burlotto estate in the Piemontese village of Verduno is run by Fabio Alessandria, whose great-grandfather Giovanni Batista Burlotto founded it in the 19^th century. Burlotto almost single-handedly put Barolo on the international wine-map, having been one of the first to spot its incredible potential. He entered his wines into international competitions and won many medals for them, something that was unprecedented at the time, and was awarded the distinguished title of ‘Il Commendatore’ in recognition of his gallant efforts for Barolo.

While the premises and cellars here are modest, the wines are some of the most spectacular in all of Piemonte. Fragrant on the nose, with bright fruit and velvety tannins, they bring out the characteristics of each individual grape, whether nebbiolo, barbera, dolcetto or the less well-known pelaverga, a pale and interesting Piemontese speciality with a spicy freshness and a slightly bitter twist on the finish which adds to its charm. Winemaking is firmly traditional with, the emphasis on large oak barrels, though there is a preference here for French, rather than Slovenian oak.

The jewel in Burlotto’s crown is Monvigliero, a legendary Barolo vineyard which produces wine of great individuality and ageing potential, never forced or overly powerful but relying instead on charm and elegance to capture our attention.