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The Society's Blaufränkisch 2019

2.800000000 star rating 15 Reviews
Our own-label blaufränkisch from Austria is a wine of very fresh acidity and light body, redcurrant fruit and a hint of tangy fresh blackberries.
is no longer available
Code: AA3431

Wine characteristics

  • Red Wine
  • Medium-bodied
  • Blaufrankisch
  • Drinking now
  • 13% Alcohol
  • no oak influence
  • Screwcap
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The Society's Blaufränkisch Video transcript

Video transcript

Today, I'm tasting the Society's Blaufränkisch, and blaufränkisch is an Austrian grape variety. This comes from the Burgenland region of Austria. So, that's right over in the east, near the Hungarian border.

Blaufränkisch is a really important grape for this part of the world. In Central Europe in general, it's got a really long history, and actually in Hungary, it goes by the name of Kékfrankos.

This is made for us by a family winery called Hans Igler, and they've been a pioneering producer of the region for a few generations now. So, it's lovely to work with people like this.

On the nose with blaufränkisch, and I think this is a great example, you get this lovely sort of cherry and blackcurrant and almost sort of hedgerow, almost plummy kind of aromas too. Really delicious and really inviting. This isn't over-oaked. You do get some which are quite oaky and take a bit of maturity to kind of open up. But this is lovely when it's young. So lovely.

On the palate you get this really fresh acidity. It balances with the tannins which are there. It's a nice structure, but they're not too overbearing. That makes it a really good food-pairing wine, but also the lovely, juicy red and black fruits make it just a real pleasure to drink on its own as well.

You don't need to worry about pairing it with anything.

So, if you haven't tried blaufränkisch, this is a perfect benchmark example, and you really can't go wrong.

Austria

Austria has a long history of making fine wines, but with the country's wines undergoing a renaissance in recent years, now is arguably the best time to get to know the diverse and delicious bottles on offer.

There is evidence that vines were being cultivated in Austria for the production of wine by the Celts, even before the Romans. Austria was, rather surprisingly, the third-largest producer of wine globally in the 1920s, mainly producing and exporting simple light white wines. In more recent times the country has had to deal with the infamous ‘anti-freeze’ scandal of the 1980s when a handful of bulk producers were found to have adulterated their wines with ethylene glycol to sweeten their wines.

The problems of the 1980s hit the country's industry hard, but also had the effect of initiating the most wide-ranging quality control measures being implemented to ensure that this sort of disaster could never happen again. The industry was further...

Austria has a long history of making fine wines, but with the country's wines undergoing a renaissance in recent years, now is arguably the best time to get to know the diverse and delicious bottles on offer.

There is evidence that vines were being cultivated in Austria for the production of wine by the Celts, even before the Romans. Austria was, rather surprisingly, the third-largest producer of wine globally in the 1920s, mainly producing and exporting simple light white wines. In more recent times the country has had to deal with the infamous ‘anti-freeze’ scandal of the 1980s when a handful of bulk producers were found to have adulterated their wines with ethylene glycol to sweeten their wines.

The problems of the 1980s hit the country's industry hard, but also had the effect of initiating the most wide-ranging quality control measures being implemented to ensure that this sort of disaster could never happen again. The industry was further reinvigorated as larger and less quality-oriented producers went out of business, leaving old sites available for a new generation of winemakers and the original fine winefamily producers.

Austria's wine regions are confined to the east of the country where the Alps settle into the great Pannonian Plain, running north to south along the many borders from the Czech Republic in the north to Slovenia in the south. The climate here is continental, characterised by cold winters, hot dry summers, and often a large diurnal temperature flux with hot days, and cold nights. This is perfect for ripening a large range of grape varieties and retaining acidity and fresh aromas in white wines.

Broadly there are three major regions: Niederösterreich in the north, Burgenland and Steiermark to the south. Within these regions are a further 16 smaller DACs (Districtus Austriae Controllatus).

Niederösterreich (27,128ha) is known for high-quality white wine production, and most of the vineyards are focused along the banks of the Danube and its tributaries. Nearly half of all vines in this large area are grüner veltliner although world-class rieslings are also produced. Sub regions to look out for here include Kamptal, Kremstal, Wachau, Wagram and Weinviertel.

Burgenland (13,840ha) is the area of vineyards focused around Lake Neusiedl - Central Europe's second-largest lake which straddles the Austrian-Hungarian border. Full-bodied and rich red wines are produced under the influence of the hot continental climate. The complex soil structure throughout the hills surrounding the lake, the various aspects available and large diurnal temperature change allows fine mineral-driven reds to be made. The reds produced use local grape varieties which are suited to the terroir - look out for blaufränkisch, zweigelt and St Laurent. The natural humidity caused by the lake can also lead to high levels of botrytis making this an excellent source of high-quality dessert wines.

Steiermark (Styria) (4,240h) the smallest Austrian area is developing a great reputation for its steely sauvignons and fresh aromatic white wines. Although many of the best wines are made in such small quantities that they are never exported, this is a region to watch.

In terms of grapes, grüner veltliner, native to Austria and Central Europe, is the king of the whites in terms of volume. It is turned into everything from light, thirst-quenching wines to complex barrel-aged stars. It is a great food wine and is finding its way on to many more restaurant wine lists around the world.

Riesling is less widely planted, at only 5% of Austria's production, but makes some of the country's finest wines, particularly on the steep slopes of the Wachau Valley along the banks of the Danube. Riesling's common style in Austria is bone-dry, elegant and steely with fresh citrus flavours.

Chardonnay (sometimes locally called morillon) and sauvignon blanc are increasingly planted and are already showing themselves to be hugely promising. The highly aromatic scheurebe, a German import, has a foothold in Steiermark making peach and blackcurrant-leaf-scented wines that marry well with spicy foods.

Reds make up about a third of Austrian plantings. 13 varieties are permitted, including both the dominant indigenous varieties and those more recently introduced such as cabernet and pinot noir. Zweigelt is the most commonly planted, making up 15% of Austria's red vines, and is a 1920s cross between blaufränkisch and St Laurent. It makes relatively light reds generally, with sour-cherry and redcurrant flavours supported by fine tannins and a spicy linear finish.

Blaufränkisch (pronounced blaou-FREN-kish) is a late-ripening indigenous variety can create wines with dense tannins, high acidity and concentration that can age well for many years. Generally the wines have notes of blackberries, ripe cherries or plums. St Laurent wines are often confused with pinot noir as they can have a similar profile: red-berry perfume, light elegant and crisp. However, St Laurent is often used to add elegance to a blend.

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Weingut Hans Igler

This estate in Austria’s Burgenland is best known for its red wines. Hans Igler was a red wine legend in his homeland; in the1970s he was among the first in Austria to make his wines completely dry and in the 1980s he was also one of the avant-garde set who defied the norm by maturing his wines in small French oak barrels.

After her father’s death, Waltraud Reisner-Igler dedicated herself to continuing her father’s vision for the wines and together with her husband Wolfgang Reisner took over the family winery, running it with an absolute commitment to quality. Their son Clemens is now also involved in the family business as well as making his own wines.

The Society is a regular follower of the Igler wines made from zweigelt - a relatively modern hybrid grape, which thrives in this part of Austria, producing wines that are deep and vibrant in colour with plump cherry flavours – and from the indigenous blaufränkisch grape which yields ample, smooth fruity reds not dissimilar in style to cru Beaujolais.

Austria Vintage 2019

The 2019 vintage is shaping up to be exciting: producers across all of Lower Austria are over the moon, with the quality post-harvest looking excellent. This is the third hot vintage in a row, but the heat came early on in the season and then cooled and remained dry through to harvest. Thanks to this cooler, drier end of the season, phenolic ripeness is excellent, and the acidities are wonderfully balanced, making for what will undoubtedly be a legendary year. I was particularly impressed with the quality of our Exhibition Grüner Veltliner and it’s also a cracking vintage for Austrian reds too. The perfect vintage to provide the first ever Austrian wine that we will be offering en primeur.

JancisRobinson.com

Mid crimson. Masses of youthful fruit. Chalky, still-quite-chewy finish. Strong bitter-cherry flavour – by no means unpleasant!! Impressive persistence for the price. Good value.

16.5/20

2018 vintage reviews

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