Food & wine

The future of food: Paula McIntyre’s Bonfire Beauty – chicken paillard with carlin peas

Steeped in history, British carlin peas are enjoying a well-deserved revival as people discover just how tasty and versatile they are. They are also a great source of protein. Northern Ireland-based chef Paula McIntyre tells us that they were also traditionally eaten on Bonfire Night in the north of England.

Mussels

Recipe: Grilled paillard of chicken with warm carlin pea and leek salad and crispy crackling

‘One lesser-known Bonfire Night tradition is the eating of Carlin peas. I first came across them on one of my many trips to the market in the Lancashire town of Bury. This is an old market, dating to 1444, but by no means trendy and is fully supported by the local community. Among the stalls was one selling these peas – braised in stock and liberally sprinkled with malt vinegar. The peas themselves, also known as carling, maple, pigeon or black badger, are like small black chickpeas and have a great flavour in their own right. You can buy them dry or in jars online or at health food shops. If using dried peas, soak overnight beforehand.’

Serves 4

Grilled paillard and crispy crackling:

Ingredients

  • 4 chicken breasts with skin on
  • 1 tsp good quality dried oregano
  • 1 tsp sea salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 tbsp olive oil or local rapeseed oil
  • Handful chopped parsley

Method

  1. Preheat oven to 180°C
  2. Remove skin from breasts and place on a baking tray lined with parchment paper. Stretch it out and season with a little salt. Place another sheet of parchment on top and then another baking tray. Bake for about 40 minutes or until the skin is crisp and golden. Cool and chop finely with the parsley.
  3. Cut in half lengthwise but not quite through then place on a board, top with clingfilm and batter with a rolling pin to flatten. Repeat with remaining breasts and brush with oil and season with the salt and oregano. Place on a hot griddle pan and cook two at a time for about 3 mins each side or until cooked through. Season with the pepper. Rest before serving with the warm pea salad.

Carlin pea and leek salad:

Ingredients

  • 200g Carlin peas (substitute black eyed peas or chickpeas)
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 stick celery, finely chopped
  • 1 litre vegetable stock
  • 75ml olive oil or good local rapeseed oil
  • 35ml balsamic vinegar
  • 1 leek, split, washed and chopped

Method

  1. Soak the peas overnight in cold water.
  2. Cook the onion, celery and garlic in 2 tbsp of the oil until soft and golden. Drain the peas and add to the pan with the stock. Simmer until peas are cooked.
  3. Drain the peas but retain 100ml of the cooking liquor. Cook the leeks in another 2 tbsp of the oil until soft and add the cooking liquor. Cook for 5 mins and add to the peas with the remaining oil and vinegar. Check seasoning.

Serve the chicken breasts on the warm leek and pea salad with the crispy chicken skin and parsley scattered over the top.

Wine recommendations

Equally at home with whites or reds, or even full-bodied rosés, this dish would positively sing with opulently oaky whites or off-dry rieslings – try with a rich chardonnay or spicy furmint, like  or a German kabinett like Von Hövel’s Niedermenniger Riesling Kabinett. For reds, opt for perfumed, full reds that are rich without being overly heavy – our Generation Series Portuguese Red would be great.

>> View our selection of future-proof food-friendly wines

>> What will we be eating in the next 50 years?

Joanna Goodman

Senior Editor

Joanna Goodman

Part of our Marketing Team for over 30 years, Jo has been editor of Society News for much of that time as well as contributing to our many other communications.

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