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There is a whole host of fair, once considered prosaic, that is making a mighty come-back and ‘street foods’ like chicken wings and slow-cooked and barbecued ribs accompany foods from the world over at many-a self-respecting food market. For a truly memorable ‘fried chicken in a basket’, try a well-made Blanc de Blanc Champagne, or English equivalent. The fat-cutting, linear acidity keep the palate fresh; the toasty, yeasty qualities match the crisp batter and the fresh citrus aromas marry well with the chicken underneath. On a budget, a good-quality Crémant would be an adequate, affable alternative, or for a still option, a good Muscadet Sèvre-et-Main Sur Lie would be very fine.