As Toby puts together his final offer of wines from South America, we hear from him about the relationships he has developed with winemakers and viticulturists and what can be achieved when time is spent nurturing these to the benefit of all wine lovers. We find out what Toby has learned from these important connections and what impact he has had in turn on developing the styles of wine we now enjoy, sharing his experience as Burgundy buyer, in particular. As Jancis Robinson MW once said of him, Toby is ‘one of the outsiders who is most respected by the Chilean wine industry.’ The farewell messages, which we also share below, from our producers in Chile, Argentina and Uruguay demonstrate the high regard and respect that Toby has earned right across South America over the past three decades.
It’s the people who matter
‘In the end, it’s people who matter. I managed to develop close relationships with a number of winemakers. After working together for around 30 years there were some tearful final tastings! I learnt so much visiting regions and vineyards with them, discussing winemaking techniques and was introduced to blending wines by masters of the art.
‘In return, at Stevenage I opened bottles from classic European regions which were hard to find in South America at the time. I wanted to help give South American winemakers a frame of reference – especially for pinot and chardonnay planted in Chile’s new cool emerging regions of Casablanca, Leyda and Limarí – based on my experiences as a Burgundy buyer. Little by little, we started discussing how to improve wines and for some I became a sort of (unpaid!) consultant, acting as a sounding board, suggesting techniques and equipment and offering opinions on the style of the wines. It was all the more satisfying for me as I am something of a frustrated winemaker, but a purely theoretical one. I offered some thoughts and suggestions, and the winemakers, adding their own ideas too, transformed these ideas and thoughts into finished wines.
Revolutionising Chilean chardonnay
‘An example of these relationships involved Ignacio Recabarren. He had come back from New Zealand after working at Cloudy Bay and was making superb sauvignon blancs, using cool fermentation and a ‘reductive’ approach, preserving aromas by minimising exposure to oxygen. Applied to chardonnay, this does not work. So, we visited Burgundy together, seeing amongst many, Vincent Dauvissat in Chablis, Bonneau de Martray in Pernand and Christophe Cordier in Pouilly-Fuissé. On his return to Chile, Ignacio changed to a more oxidative style, allowing more oxygen exposure during winemaking and maturation, fermented at warmer temperatures, changed coopers, used cool-climate fruit and this revolutionised Chilean chardonnay. Ignacio initiated me into the art of blending, of which he is a master.'
Own labels made from varieties matched to climate and soil
‘I am really proud of the range of own labels I blended with winemakers to produce exclusive wines made to suit the palate of members of The Wine Society. I really believe they represent excellent quality as well as value for money and many have been pioneering. For example, I was an early adopter of chardonnay and sauvignon blanc from the cool Limarí region, where these varieties changed from warm climate tropical fruit bombs to elegant, highly aromatic, fresh wines with long, linear palates which tempt you to enjoy another glass.
‘Many varieties used to be planted in the same area. Over 30 years, varieties were moved to the climates and soils that best suited them. In Chile, cabernet was luckily first planted on the alluvial soils of the Maipo River and was a great success. But sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot noir moved away from warm climates like Maipo and Rapel, to newly discovered cool coastal regions like Casablanca, Leyda and especially Limarí where there is also a lot of calcium carbonate (limestone) in the soil. Carmenère began to excel in the cooler parts of the Rapel Valley. In Argentina, a blend of malbec from the traditional warm areas of Lunlunta and Agrelo with cooler-climate wines from the Uco Valley proved very successful. It’s been so rewarding to watch these improvements take place and realised in ever more impressive expressions of the grapes.’
Own label wines
The Society's Argentine Malbec 2024
The Society's Chilean Pinot Noir, Leyda 2024
The Society's Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo 2024
The Society's Chilean Carmenère, Rapel Valley 2024
The Society's Chilean Limarí Sauvignon Blanc 2025
The Society's Exhibition Alto Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
The Society's Exhibition DO Colchagua Andes Carmenère 2023
The Society's Exhibition Limarí Chardonnay 2024
The Society's Exhibition Limarí Pinot Noir 2023
Wines and winemakers I particularly admire
Chile
Ignacio Recabarren
‘Over a long career Ignacio made some of Chile’s greatest wines, Casa Real at Santa Rita, sauvignon blancs at Viña Casablanca, Carmín, and Terrunyo at Concha y Toro and remarkable sauvignon blancs in Leyda at Ventolera.
Together we invented and trademarked the brand name Terrunyo, derived from the noun terruño meaning terroir, and devised the label for Ventolera, a wind-blown tree, showing the cool and windy nature of Leyda. He is now making a series of wines from Casablanca, the region he pioneered, under his own name. These 2024s are exceptionally good, demonstrating Ignacio’s elegant style. Grapes are picked ripe yet fresh and he has a light hand on extraction and oak allowing the quality of the fruit to shine.’
I met Toby in the Year 1995 in a London Wine Fair and we, in a very short period, had a very good friendship. Later I realised he had the same palate, like me, the same motivations, and we started a wonderful camaraderie. Toby is a very professional guy, very thoughtful, and of course a great buyer; always very correct and clear about prices and a man who is very difficult to forget. Toby has visited Chile many times, but he also gave me the chance to visit Burgundy (and Stevenage), and in so doing changed my life for ever.
Rafael Urrejola and Adolpho Hurtado, Viña Undurraga
‘I see similarities in Rafael’s winemaking style with Ignacio. These are really fine wines, elegant and understated yet persistent in flavour. He excels at all varieties. I was astonished by his remarkable ability in one so young when I met him at his first company, Viña Leyda. Now at Undurraga he makes a superb range of wines including TH (Terroir Hunter), exclusive labels like Candelabro, Finca Las Lomas and Cauquenes Estate, and also manages vineyards at Cauquenes, Leyda and Maipo. Adolpho Hurtado, now managing director here, I first met in 1994, and watched him create Cono Sur from scratch, with Eduardo Gulisasti, impressing as both winemaker and managing director.’
Underraga wines
Undurraga Candelabro Reserva Chardonnay Leyda Valley 2024
Undurraga Candelabro Leyda Pinot Noir 2025
Undurraga Candelabro Maule Carmenere 2025
Undurraga Cauquenes Estate Carignan 2023
Undurraga Cauquenes Estate Grenache 2024
Undurraga Cauquenes Estate Maule Viognier-Roussanne-Marsanne 2025
Undurraga Finca Las Lomas Chardonnay Leyda Valley 2024
Undurraga Finca Las Lomas Leyda Sauvignon Gris 2025
Undurraga TH Alto Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon 2024
Undurraga TH Rarities Maule Garnacha-Cariñena-Monastrell 2022
Undurraga TH San Antonio Riesling 2021
Undurraga Vigno DO Valle de Maule Carignan 2022
I met Toby in 2002 and showed him my very first wines from Leyda Valley. From the beginning we had a connection based on some characteristics on wines that we both search and prefer. I learned from Toby many, many things, being a source of relevant knowledge that helped me to become the winemaker I am now. And not only me, a lot of winemakers agree with that and also we have seen Toby’s input to the industry as a benchmark of quality and improvement.
I was fortunate to spend many times, tastings, dinners and trips with Toby, getting to know him very well and getting to realise the great professional and better person he is. I first knew Toby as a buyer, rapidly he became a teacher and mentor, and ended up being a friend. We all will miss Toby a lot but certainly we will keep in touch to share, and probably discuss, many more bottles of wines.
Best regards, Rafael
Dear Toby,
It´s never good to hear news like this; I have no words to describe how much I really enjoyed working with you during all this past years. As I have told you many times, I consider you the buyer who knows most about wines and about Chile in the whole world. Thank you very much for your great support throughout my career; you have been great with me and you were a very important part of the Cono Sur and my career success! I really want to wish you great success in your upcoming challenges. You only deserve the best. You are a great professional and person. Looking forward to see you next, soon, somewhere.
Adolfo
Cristóbal Undurraga, Koyle and Doña Paula
‘Cristóbal is one of Chile’s and now Argentina’s leading viticulturists and winemakers. These functions are often separated in large wine companies. Together we have made study trips to the Rhône and Spain, including Jerez. The small 70ha organic and biodynamic vineyard of Koyle is a model of a top Chilean vineyard.
'It is situated in a cool part of Rapel at Los Lingues, ideal for elegant carmenère and Rhône varieties. It was soil mapped and the three different terraces are planted with different densities on slopes with many different blocks, some less than 2ha. The upper, less fertile terraces are planted up to 8,000 vines/ha, which is high for Chile. Training varies from vertically shoot positioned, guyot, individually staked vines for syrah to bush vines for mourvèdre. Cristòbal makes one of Chile’s greatest carmenères, G2, Rhône blends, Basalto Mediterraneo, and carmenere-led blends, AUMA.
He recently started as wine director at Doña Paula, Argentina, converting the high-altitude 1,350m Aluvia vineyard in Gualtallary to organic methods which are starting to produce impressive grapes and wines. He is very amusing and has a great sense of humour. He has shown me the beautiful Chilean coast at Cachagua and Zapallar, and he masters the low and slow art of the barbecue, Argentine style. The meat is caramelised on the outside and jugoso, juicy, within.’
Koyle & Kipu wines
Koyle Alto Colchagua Reserva Carmenère 2025
Koyle AUMA, D.O. Los Lingues, Colchagua Valley 2020
Koyle Cerro Basalto Mediterraneo Alto Colchagua 2021
Kipu Mendoza Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2025
Kipu Gualtallary Chardonnay 2025
Dear Toby,
When I think back on the past sixteen years, I realise that what we built goes far beyond a professional relationship. It has been a friendship shaped by vineyards, wines, long conversations, unforgettable meals and a shared curiosity to keep learning. Ever since José Guilisasti introduced us in 2010, I have learnt an enormous amount from travelling with you through Rioja, Jumilla, Jerez, Barolo, the Rhône Valley, England and Scotland. You never simply tasted wines, you always wanted to understand why they were the way they were, and you encouraged everyone around you to think more deeply.
Some of my favourite memories are far from the tasting table: that unforgettable evening in Getaria’s Kaia-Kaipe in the Basque Country with generous colleagues who show very rare and old wines from Rioja, that extraordinary lunch at Asador Etxebarri, our legendary ‘naval battles’ over fish, king crab, sea urchins, piures and every imaginable seafood delicacy, and the many long walks where we spoke about wine, life and everything in between. One memory will always stay with me: my first visit to Burgundy, around 2012, with you and Roy Richards. For a whole week we visited growers from morning until evening, listening to their philosophies and walking through their vineyards. That trip completely changed the way I think about wine. It taught me that there are no absolute rules or dogmas, only a constant search to understand a place, its soils, its climate, its people and its history. That lesson has influenced every wine I have made since. And then there was Mull. Those wonderful days in Scotland with a group of friends, enjoying spectacular seafood, crab, beautiful meat, unforgettable bottles from your cellar and long walks along breathtaking beaches and landscapes. Those moments created memories that will stay with me forever. They remind me that the greatest wines are often remembered because of the people we shared them with.
Throughout all these years, you never stopped being completely honest with me. You always said exactly what you thought about every wine I made. Sometimes it was difficult to hear, but it was always sincere, thoughtful and incredibly valuable. I grew as a winemaker because you never settled for ‘good enough.’
There is one story that makes me smile today. In more than sixteen years, you never bought one of my Cabernet Sauvignons from Los Lingues in Colchagua Valley. You always told me, ‘Toti, you have to make a Cabernet Sauvignon from the Maipo Valley.’ Well... this year, the year you retire, I finally released my own Alto Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon after many years searching for the right vineyard and the special terroir I had been looking for. I cannot help but think that, in some way, your voice has been with me throughout that journey. This wine is the result of patience, conviction and everything I learnt from people like you.
Toby, thank you for your friendship, your honesty, your generosity and your curiosity. Thank you for helping me become not only a better winemaker, but also a better observer, listener and student of wine. I have no doubt that our friendship will continue, and I look forward to sharing many more bottles, memorable meals and long conversations together.
With my deepest gratitude and friendship,
Cristobal ‘Toti’ Undurraga
Marcelo Papa, wine director Concha y Toro
‘Concha have some of the best vineyards in Chile. Marcelo’s cabernets from Maipo vineyards at Puente Alto and Pirque are remarkable. Marcelo was tasked by Concha with finding a terroir like Puligny-Montrachet. He came up with vineyards around Santa Cristina at Quebrada Seca in Limarí, from which he makes Amelia, some of Chile’s greatest pinots and chardonnays. He has found time to make an exclusive range for us called Corte Marcelo.’
‘Marcelo is fun to be with and always cracking jokes. Like many winemakers, he is a wonderful cook and has made for me lovely gnocchi, tortolá, a type of small pigeon and the best machas clams I ever tasted, made to his mother’s recipe. Together we have eaten the superb crayfish from the Limarí river, camarón del río, His espresso and ristretto coffees are legendary.
Argentina
Roberto de la Mota, Mendel
‘Trained at Montpellier University, France, Roberto has a European sensibility making understated wines that benefit from decanting and are made to drink with food. They have 70-year-old vineyards around the bodega in Mayor Drummond, interspersed with olive trees, at Perdriel and in the cool Uco Valley. The late-picked petit manseng is a lovely dessert wine.’
Mendel wines
Mendel Altamira Cabernet Franc 2024
Mendel Finca de los Andes Perdriel Cabernet Sauvignon 2023
Mendel, Finca Mendel Mayor Drummond Mendoza Malbec 2023
Mendel Finca Remota Paraje Altamira Malbec 2023
Mendel Paraje Altamira Late Harvest Petit Manseng 2024 50cl
To write or comment about one of the best wine buyers that I have ever known is certainly really easy. What will be much more difficult is imagining next July without his visit! Yes, every July, coinciding with the coolest days in Mendoza, I have had the pleasure of welcoming Toby for the past 17 or perhaps even 20 years.
What a pleasure it has been to receive him. His ability as a wine taster was impressive for me! And what a memory he has! As a taster, he has always been incredibly consistent and assured. He never asked about wine awards o journalists' notes. He was so confident in his own palate that he didn’t need to know others' opinions. He remembered his wines impressions after a year and that always shocked me because I know he tasted a lot of wine in so many different countries.
I will never forget his comments about the first Semillon I made at Mendel. I showed him this wine four months after harvest and still from the tank. It was still on its lees, so it was fresh and somewhat cloudy, but wonderfully aromatic. Toby was so impressed by it that he encouraged me to release the Semillon. We did, and the wine went on to become a great success for us
Toby has always been an outstanding professional buyer for The Wine Society because, above all, he chose wines that he genuinely believed would be interesting for its partners.
I will greatly miss his visits, and our conversations about wines, vintages and many mutual friends around the world.
I wish him a wonderful retirement, filled with good readings and great wines!
Roberto de la Mota
Nesti Bajda, Catena
‘Catena pioneered planting vines in the cool-climate Gualtallary at 1,400-1,500m altitude. Some said red grapes would never ripen there. Today it produces wonderful, elegant wines, both red and white. Nesti combines skills as a viticulturist and winemaker which in the end serves to make great wines. We blend The Society’s Exhibition Malbec with him and his remarkable skills help us produce an excellent wine.’
Ernesto ‘Nesti’ Bajda started working in the Catena family’s vineyards in 2002 and brings his deep knowledge of the vineyards into his winemaking
Querido Toby! Best wine taster I've ever dealt with! I have learned a lot from you, too. Enjoy a very well-earned retirement. Wish you all the best and count on me for whatever I can be of help with. Thank you for your advice. Saludos and SALUD!!! 🍷🍷🍷
Susana Balbo
‘I first met Susana at Martin’s Winery in about 1994 and was astonished by her ability and drive. She was obviously a star in the making. I apparently encouraged her to work for herself as I said if she made her own wines, I would buy them. She made some of the early Catena wines, the Alamos range, at Bodega Esmerelda, before project leading the building of Catena’s pyramid winery. Technically brilliant she made a new style of torrontès macerated on the skins and she makes our own-label Society’s Argentine Malbec.’
Dear Toby,
It was such a pleasure and an honour to share our last 'tango' in Mendoza. You will be dearly missed, although we know you leave a wonderful successor to follow in your steps.
I share my thoughts of you below:
Toby holds a highly significant place in my winemaking career. Since our initial meeting in 1996, the year our friendship was forged, he became a fundamental source of inspiration for founding my own company. Throughout all these years, we have shared unforgettable moments dedicated to crafting blends and engaging in profound dialogue about the passion that unites us: the art of winemaking.
We wish you all the very best for this new stage in your life.
Abrazo enorme!
Alejandro Sejanovich, 55malbec
‘Alejandro is another talented ex-Catena employee trained in both viticulture and winemaking with the gifted Pedro Marchevsky. He founded 55 malbec with Jeff Mausbach who had been in charge of marketing at Catena. Alejandro makes the Quimay wines from the cool Uco Valley, a malbec, a cabernet franc and, new this year, a semillon. The upmarket Teho range is fine and sophisticated and made in small quantities from a part of the vineyard planted in 1940.’
Quimay Valle & Teho wines
Quimay Valle de Uco Mendoza Malbec 2025
Quimay Valle de Uco Los Chacayes Cabernet Franc 2025
Quimay Valle de Uco La Consulta Semillon 2025
Teho La Consulta Semillon 2022
Teho Gualtallary Chardonnay 2022
Teho Tomal Vineyard La Consulta Malbec 2018
Bodega Weinert
‘Lovely old-fashioned wines aged for up to 18 years in cask with the aromas and flavours of leather, tobacco and the forest floor. They buy from some remarkable, old vineyards such as Finca Vittori planted in 1897. These old vineyards have small berries which make beautiful wines with sweet tannins and old-vine textures. The Wine Society was the first to bottle single casks under the Tonel Unicó name (you can read more about that here and the part I played in this wine). The combination of the founder’s daughter Iduna and the Swiss winemaker Hubert Weber make a great team.’
Weinert wines
Weinert Carrascal Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2022
Weinert Malbec Mendoza 2020
Weinert Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
Magnum of Weinert Carrascal Asamblaje Especial NV No.2
Weinert Cavas de Weinert Mendoza 2013
I have been very emotional since Toby called me early this year to announce he was retiring. One of my favourite memories of Toby goes back to the early 2000s, when he travelled through Patagonia in the south of Argentina with my father, Don Bernardo. They drove together in a Renault Twingo, which still makes me laugh. Toby is not exactly a small man, and to this day I do not fully understand how he managed to fit inside that car for such a long journey.
That trip also included the famous asados de lomo of Don López back in Mendoza, which Toby has remembered and shared with me many times. My father would always judge them very seriously, but no matter how amazingly good they were, the highest score was always 9.5. A perfect 10 was simply never given.
At that time, I was still very young and far from imagining that, around fifteen years later, Toby and I would begin developing projects together. I stepped into the business in 2002 as a young and rather naïve second generation, and Toby gave me honesty, support and the confidence to grow into my role.
Among the projects we developed, seeing a Weinert wine selected as one of The Wine Society’s 150th Anniversary wines was a very special moment and a source of enormous pride for all of us. [You can read more about how that wine came about here.]
These stories capture Toby very well: his sense of humour, his spirit of adventure and the very personal relationship he built with my father, my family and with our team. They are memories that will always make me smile.
Kind regards,
Iduna
Uruguay
Pisano
‘Lovely classic tannats from a model family-run estate. Brothers Daniel, sales, Gustavo, winemaker, Eduardo, viticulture, and his winemaker son Gabriel, run the business. I learnt much blending wines here with winemakers Gustavo and Gabriel in the tasting room, with red gingham tablecloths and grill/oven in which many lovely asados were prepared. There was a strong feeling of working closely together in a professional way with much warmth and shared affection. I think there were at least four of us crying at the last tasting as our shared feelings that we had felt for each other, but had not really expressed, were released. The dam broke!’
Pisano wines
Pisano Viña Barrancal Progreso Tannat 2025
Pisano Don Francesco Founder's Gran Reserve Progreso Tannat 2025
Pisano Family Selection Grand Reserve Tannat 2023
Dearest Toby!
Our ‘Big’ friend Toby Morrhall, now retiring from active duty, has been coming to Uruguay during the last 20 years to source Tannat wines from the Pisano Family. Every July or August, Toby is the most expected visit. Year after year, he has selected la crème de la crème of our Tannats and occasionally other grapes, for The Wine Society members, always being a faithful negotiator between the interest of us producers and the benefit for the wine consumer.
‘Passion before Profit’ is a remarkable statement that embodies The Wine Society. Through the years, we have come to confirm and reconfirm that it is totally genuine and true!
For sure Toby is the best taster and blender we have ever known, and he knows more about Pisano wines than us Pisanos do. It has always been a very moving experience to contemplate Toby creating wines together with our winemakers Gustavo and Gabriel Pisano, as when musicians look at each other coordinating while performing like in a musical dialogue.
During his last professional visit on 24th July 2026, we all put our hearts on top of the tasting table, confirming each other that we have always enjoyed Old School opportunities of deleting the boundaries between business and true friendship: Passion before profit!
HUGE Thanks for so many years of highly enjoyable wine sessions and sharing with us your vast wine knowledge!
Long live Sir Toby Morrhall!!!
Warm regards from wet & cold Uruguay!
With much respect and admiration, The Pisano Family, Uruguay
Fernando & Santiago Deicas, Juanicó
‘I have rarely met such an intelligent father, Fernando, and son, Santiago, team. They are technically brilliant as well as having broad business knowhow. They have been pioneers of albariño and godello as well as making perhaps Uruguay’s finest wine, the wonderful tannat blend Gran Bodegón.’
Santiago Deicas says that he was just a kid when Toby first visited his family’s estate and he remembers learning how to taste from him and was also on barbecue duties from a young age... his tribute is made in a short video.
Thierry's tribute
Toby, looking back over the past 27 years, it is quite remarkable how our business relationship has grown into a true friendship. We have shared many great moments together, and your last visit felt a little nostalgic for us, knowing that you are moving on to a new chapter. I sincerely hope that, regardless of where life takes us, we will continue to stay in touch and see each other from time to time. Secondly, it was great to meet Harriet and welcome her to our little winery, especially during that unforgettable day of torrential rain, without electricity, enjoying our cold lunch! And it is still raining every second day or so. I can assure you it looks much better when it is a nice sunny day!
Thank you again Toby for your friendship and support over all these years. It has truly meant a great deal to us, and we look forward to continuing our relationship with The Wine Society through Harriet for many years to come.
Warm regards, Thierry
Eugenio's tribute
Dear Toby, I would like to wish you all the best in this new stage. Continue enjoying every moment! Thank you for all the conversations and the wine knowledge I got from you. I’m sharing a photo of our memorable trip to the Isle of Mull with you! Cheers! Eugenio
Reinaldo De Lucca's tribute
Mr. Toby is highly knowledgeable about wines from the world's various wine-growing regions. He appreciates the work that goes into the vineyard and understands the importance of grape quality. I would like to add how significant Toby has been to me; I have learned a great deal from him – especially regarding consumer preferences and maintaining wine quality. But above all – and most importantly – Toby is a good person and a true gentleman.
Introducing Harriet, our new buyer for South America
Taking over the South American wine buying from Toby is both a privilege and a responsibility. I’m inheriting not only an amazing, diverse range of fantastic South American wines, but also Toby’s unprecedented legacy across these countries. After 30 years of building relationships, developing wines and working closely with producers, there is a lot to live up to, and an incredible foundation to build from.
I learnt a great deal during our handover trip in July this year. Over these last 30 years, Toby has acted as much as a consultant as he has a buyer. With his expertise in Burgundy and his technical background and razor-sharp palate, he has both guided and challenged producers, often getting involved far beyond the traditional role of a buyer.
Through tasting and blending exclusive wines, often with access to the very best barrels, Toby built an extraordinary level of trust and friendship with the winemakers. Many would anticipate his visit as one of the most important of their year, occasionally joking that he knew the region better than they did. He was never afraid to challenge his partners on their approach, decisions or ambition.
His influence went far beyond what made it into The Wine Society’s range. For example, he can be credited directly with changing the way Chile made Chardonnay, bringing a more Burgundian, less reductive approach and he championed terroir-driven sites, as well as encouraging producers to explore lesser-known varieties and old vines, consistently pushing for more ambitious, site-specific wines.
The handover trip was nothing short of emotional, and it was plain to see just how much Toby has impacted the lives, vineyards and winemaking of so many people. It’s an honour to take forward the range he has built, and to continue his quest to bring excellent quality and diversity from these magnificent winemaking countries. My aim is not to replicate what Toby has done, but to build on it, preserving the relationships, while continuing to look for new and exciting wines for members.
Harriet Kininmonth
Buyer